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Sugar Crack Buttress
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Rubberneck Crack T 
Sugar Crack T 
Sugaree T 

Rubberneck Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Beissel and Mike Krowka, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 453
Submitted By: James Beissel on May 9, 2008

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  • Description 

    Begin on the southwest side of the buttress and climb an angling, hand crack to a small bush. At this point, the crack forms a quartz-filled groove and the pro becomes scarce. It is possible to stem left to the corner and avoid the mungy runout. Continue up to a handcrack splitting a roof and turn the roof using hand jams and face holds (crux). Continue to the top of the buttress up broken rock.

    Location 

    This is on the southwest side of Sugar Crack Buttress.

    Protection 

    Standard rack to 3".


    Comments on Rubberneck Crack Add Comment
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    By James Beissel
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 24, 2008

    We initially thought this was Sugar Crack, but after a chat with Dan Hare I'm pretty sure it wasn't. The name comes from the five or six cars that were backed up behind a "rubbernecker" watching us as we climbed.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 9, 2012
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Don't go left to the corner at the bush. It is totally avoidable and the direct line is protectable - put a cam below the bush, step left to a jug right by its base, and get up to standing on that. Step back right to the right above it, place good gear in the "quartz dike" and pull that from its right side on great sidepulls, then finish. Going left is dirty and loose and the moves are not as good anyway.

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