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Rubber Lover 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 41
Submitted By: B-Mkll Mackall on Jul 15, 2014

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Description 

A vicious and bouldery little route. Gently overhanging, make a couple thin moves up to a high first bolt (stick clip?) and make a big move to stick the thank-god jug. Next pull a small traverse out left on small underclings, and launch into a series of cruxy sequences between horizontal cracks/edges. Two very tough clips in a row, one off of a sloping sidepull out left and the other following a stout crux with terrible and hard to see feet, guard a much easier (5.9ish) run to the top on lower angle terrain.

Totally different in style than many of the other nearby routes.

Location 

starts in the small alcove just before the climbers' trail heads up to the Outhouse wall classics.

Protection 

5 bolts to chains. Stick clip recommended for the first bolt as the opening moves aren't trivial and a fall would land you in talus.


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