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Rubber Ducky 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dan Trygstad, Dave Gouge, John Pfeil in 1986.
Fixed Hardware: 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Feb 28, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Near the start.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is a fun route, but it feels difficult for its 10a rating. You could place your #6 Camalot as your first piece, but it is better to save it for above. A #5 will work as well. The starting crack gets smaller, and you gain a small ledge below a short offwidth crack. The offwidth will take your #6, and there is a small crack deep within. Above there is a small ledge where a steep hand crack begins. The crack gets thinner up high before you reach a good ledge. You can lay back at the cracks end. You can belay at a thin crack on the ledge if you want to see and communicate with your follower. You can proceed left, under a rock and through a small tunnel like area, and belay beneath the Turf Spreader crux roof.


This route is well to the right of Great Chimney and starts by a mellow, angled ramp. You begin up a crack which is wide at the start. There is a fixed anchor near the end to descend or you can continue up Turf Spreader.


Standard rack to a #6 Camalot. There are anchors above Great Chimney near where the route ends.

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Rock Climbing Photo: The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.

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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jan 9, 2017

I upgraded the old anchor at the top of the great chimney today with hardware from the BCC. Consider donating to the BCC.

Also, it is possible (and quite fun!) to climb this route without touching the offwidth. Start a few feet left of the traditional start following cracks and seams to a ledge with a bush, then step right on to the chock stone at the end of the OW. This variation is still in the 10a range, but some of the climbing is a wee-bit runout. This is a great option if you don't want to haul anything bigger than a #3 up the hill.

Rock Climbing Photo: 1/2" Powers next to one of the 1/4" bolt...
1/2" Powers next to one of the 1/4" bolts removed.
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 14, 2017

The start that Monty mentions is also a fun way to start Turf Spreader in the Winter when the chimney is iced up.

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