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BETA PHOTO: After the roof, the corner keeps going for a long ...
To access the clean, long corner, you have to climb a short thirty foot seam by hard to protect 11+/12- moves to a ledge. From there, it is excellent climbing that is sustained. The book says to break it up into 4 or so pitches, but three long pitches make it a fun sustained climb.
P1. Climb from the 5.11+ on thin gear and to right below the obvious roof and belay (200ft).
P2. 2nd pitch is 170 to a nice ledge.
P3. Last pitch is about 50 feet or so with most of it being easy 5th classing to the top.
The route is about 200 yds from Unknown 1
. It is the only obvious, sustained corner. To get down, you have to walk about 0.2 of mile to the rap station of Dog Day Afternoon
For the beginning bring green C3 or black Alien or Ball nuts. After that you it is nice to have doubles all the way to #4 Camalot with one #5 and triples of #0.3-2. If you break the climb up into more pitches, then you could do less gear.
BETA PHOTO: Spot the pillar looking feature to easily find the...
By Matt Lisenby
Apr 2, 2009
Kim & I freed the lower section in about 2002. Gear was thin and the climbing was and leaning & off balance - great fun. We felt like it was around 5.11+. I remember mining dirt out of the crack for nut placements. Overall, I thought this route is one of the best in Unaweep canyon, its one of the few I've been happy to repeat. It's a striking line from top to bottom with very little opportunity for getting lost/distracted or off route - all of which are par for the course in most multi-pitch Unaweep experiences.
Jun 12, 2013
Pizem sent MB and I up here last week. Great route! A little tricky at the bottom, but after that it follows some amazing 5.10 with a little bit of everything. Definitely one of the finer routes in Unaweep.
By Doug Donato
3 days ago
As one of the first ascenders, I'm happy to see some of the good comments regarding the quality of this route. We thought it was an excellent route when we climbed it in '93. Back then we did it with 50 m ropes and not knowing if it would "go" we did it in 4 pitches and belayed where it looked good, but I agree that with 60 m ropes it can probably be done in 2-3 pitches. I'm also happy to hear it can be freed at 5.11+, but I'd just like to point out that only the first move or two goes at that level and the rest of the climb I would say is 5.9-10a and I'd like to see more people that aren't .11+ climbers try it. We certainly weren't .11+ climbers so we aided the first move and that's why we rated it A0. As I remember the rest of the climb is beautiful hand jamming and stemming.