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Rätikon

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Schweizereck 

Rätikon Rock Climbing 


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Location: 47.03816, 9.78042 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Dan Flynn, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monty on Aug 7, 2015
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Description 

Mostly developed in the late eighties and early nineties, Rätikon has an old school aura. The cliffs are composed of very compact limestone, offering technical slabs to vertical or gently overhanging faces. Most of the routes require good technique and sound footwork. Overall, climbing here is adventurous, memorable, and rewarding. Bring enough food to last your visit, as once you’re up there, you likely won’t want to go back to town to restock.

Climbing and Gear: Two 50m ropes are required for most descents, though there are some walk-offs. A light rack may be useful, as well.

Groceries/Climbing Shop: There is a Coop grocery store in Schiers, but for bigger stock-ups, head to Landquart or Chur. Be sure to stock up before going to Rätikon, because you likely won’t want to drive back down to town.

Norbert Joos Bergsport is an excellent climbing/outdoors store in Chur. The store sells threaded propane canisters, has an excellent guidebook selection, and offers any climbing equipment you might need. The address is: Kasernenstrasse 90, 7000 Chur.

Camping/hut: Tent camping in Rätikon is technically illegal, but it is tolerated if one bivies or sleeps in their vehicle. Most people sleep in the parking lot for the Pardutzhütte. From the parking, you will find water and a pit toilet across the road and up the hill on the right side of the hut.

If you wish to sleep in the Pardutzhütte at Rätikon, reservations can be made at www.kcr-online.ch. The key can be picked up at the Gaissschara restaurant in Schuders. The cost is 20 CHF per person/night.

Getting There 

From Landquart, follow signs to Schiers, then to Schuders. The road from Schiers to Schuders is one lane, steep, and has numerous switchbacks. From Schuders, continue on to Grüscher Alpi via a slow, one-lane, gravel road. Be prepared to back up to make way for oncoming traffic. Once at Grüscher Alpi (which is a cattle farm), go left (north) until you see a larger square parking area on the left. From here, it is a quick walk up the road to access the red and white blazed trail that leads to Rätikon.

Climbing Season

For the Switzerland area.

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Rätikon

Intifada 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Europe : Switzerland : ... : Schweizereck
Intifada is classic at the grade, offering everything from technical slabs to steep face climbing. Each pitch is unique and memorable, and the sustained nature of the route packs a punch. Expect some runouts, especially on the first pitch. P1 (7a/11d; 35m): A beautiful slab pitch that starts at a low bolt just left of the route Lilith (name written at base). Follow well-spaced bolts (11- R) up and left to an anchor on a nice ledge. The crux moves are well-protected.P2 (6c+/11c@SEM...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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