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RR multi-pitch routes with ledges at every belay
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Oct 23, 2013
I'm looking to do some multi-pitch routes with ledges at most belays. The ledges need not be huge or really cushy, just marginally comfortable for three people. I'm not psyched on hanging belays with a three person climbing team. Looking for gear routes (bolted would be okay too) in the 5.10a - 5.8 range.

Any recommendations? I sorta stumped myself on this one.
From Santa Rosa, CA
Joined Jun 11, 2010
105 points
Oct 23, 2013
From memory I think these all do (or mostly do):

Frigid Air Buttress
Rainbow Buttress
Beulah's Book
The Gobbler
Dark Shadows
Black Orpheus (one belay may have been somewhat hanging)
Jubilant Song
From Oakland, CA
Joined Sep 26, 2011
413 points
Oct 23, 2013
Purblind Pillar on the Angel Food wall has mostly good ledges. There's one slightly cramped stance, but it works just fine with a party if three. For that matter, the same applies to Group Therapy and Tunnel Vision: Both have one slightly cramped but totally manageable stance. They're only 5.7 however.

Y2K has all good ledges.

Frigid Air Buttress has all HUGE ledges on the way up, but will involve one at least semi-hanging stance on the way down.

Lotta Balls has all good ledges except for the top of p1, which is a bit cramped but totally fine with three.

For what it's worth, Dark Shadows, while a good route, has a belay that's at least as small as any if the routes above.
Derek Doucet
Joined Apr 26, 2010
53 points
Oct 23, 2013
Jubilant Song has a full hanging belay that can be skipped, but you have to be a bit creative about it.

Black Orpheus has stances except for the very last belay, but its easy so it should go fast.

Dark Shadows has a jingus ledge on it that sucks with a party of 2.

I'd recommend Purblind as well if you want at least 5.8.

Most climbs with really good ledges in Red Rock are in the 5.6/5.7 range.

You can go ledge to ledge on Birthday Party on the Community Pillar.

Community Pillar is also pretty nice ledges the whole way up (including a big cave that's pretty neat).

Sunspot Ridge is 5.8, 15 pitches, and nothing but nice, spacious ledges- definitely for winter, though.

I cant remember, but vague memory says that Black Dagger was pretty decent- especially if you link 2&3.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
1,495 points
Oct 23, 2013
I remember doing dark shadows with three a couple times if you do it in two pitches don't you skip that small ledge? But ya probably not the best on list Mostafa
From Oakland, CA
Joined Sep 26, 2011
413 points
Oct 23, 2013
prince of darkness Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
75 points

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