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RPM (2nd pitch early exit) T 
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RPM 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 800'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 971
Submitted By: Eric Stern on Jun 27, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Awkward semi hanging belay in the corner. *edit* t...

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Description 

While RPM is an independent route to the top, it is rarely done and most parties will elect to continue up Outer Space after the second pitch.

Pitch 1: move up a short, dirty sparsely bolted slab to a smallish ledge below a dihedral (10d). This pitch can easily be avoided by climbing/scrambling up the first portion of Remorse 30 feet to the right (5.0).

Pitch 2: Make your way up to the dihedral then jam and layback your way up to the 3 foot roof. Pull over the roof on to great finger locks (crux). After that it is relatively easy climbing through a v-slot and an easy off-width to two tree ledge (10b). This pitch looks somewhat short but the roof is at 35 meters and the whole pitch is over 60 meters.

Pitch 3+: Continue on up Outerspace

Location 

When you reach the base of SCW directly in front of you is the 10d slab. The 5.0 start is 30 feet right starting in an often vegetated gully.

Protection 

70 meter rope and what ever you plan to bring for Outer Space. Extra slings are nice.


Photos of RPM Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The roof, oh so good. Fun climbing up to it as wel...
The roof, oh so good. Fun climbing up to it as wel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from Two Tree Ledge on an early seaso...
Looking down from Two Tree Ledge on an early seaso...

Comments on RPM Add Comment
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By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Sep 21, 2016

Really fun alternate start to outer space. Sequence through the roof is a little more tricky to sort out for those of us with a short wingspan, but it's all still there.

I led the first pitch of remorse and took it up into the corner a ways where I could see great gear. The semi hanging belay sucks, but it will leave you with a lot of gear for the roof, a nice rope run, and let parties going through remorse come through right behind your second with no shenanigans.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Oct 7, 2016

Because I drank a nalgene of vodka on the approach!?

I actually didn't know that RPM split right of remorse that early. I was leading remorse behind another party who were taking some time. At the hollow flake step across I decided to just go up the right facing corner and through the RPM roof instead. It looked like an obvious line.

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