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RPM (2nd pitch early exit) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 286
Submitted By: Hans Radish on Feb 18, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Regular 2nd pitch of RPM in red Early exit in blue...

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Description 

For those wanting to add yet another classic pitch of 5.8 to 5.9 climbing to Outer Space, this is a must do. The splitter dihedral that makes up the first part of RPM's 2nd pitch can be climbed without having to commit to pulling the .10b roof.

Pitch 1: Climb any of the several options to get to the anchors at the base of RPM's 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: Climb left from the anchor into the small right facing dihedral system and start laybacking your way up the beautiful corner for almost 35 meters. Once you reach the roof, pull left around the edge of the corner to a line of holds that traverses 15 feet left, then follow an easy 5th class ramp to a huge ledge with some trees. Because of rope drag from the traverse, it is advisable to belay your second up from a large slung block as soon as you reach the low 5th class ramp and do the short section to the ledge separately.
Pitch 3+: From here you can continue to the top on Outer Space.

See info for RPM and Outer Space.

Protection 

Same rack as for Outer Space. Single or double length sling extensions are necessary for pieces you place before, during, and after the traverse to keep rope drag down.


Comments on RPM (2nd pitch early exit) Add Comment
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By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Mar 10, 2017

I've done this variation and recall it being run-out slab with your last piece way behind and below you at the roof. Felt harder than 5.9 to me, but maybe it was a high gravity day.
By Hans Radish
From: Washington
Jun 11, 2017

Its possible to end up above or below the ideal spot, but there is a protectable, albeit somewhat dirty crack leading straight left from the roof that provides some good handhoolds, with chickenheads below for feet, which was no harder than 5.7

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