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Royal Flush 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Engle/Jacobs 1986
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 15, 2013

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Check NPS for Closures


Start immediately right of the huge chockstone, following the left line of bolts to 1 or 2 gear placements up to a bolted anchor on a ledge. Belay or continue to the top being mindful of rope drag. The next section is fun face climbing up the dihedral and crystalline crack to the top of a pillar with a bolted anchor way off right. Don't belay here, instead go straight up and yard over the roof to the summit and final anchor.

Two options to descend. Rap all the way back to the anchor for the potential first pitch, but be sure to keep the rope out of the roof crack OR make 3 raps straight down The Gambler.

The bolts on the first section (or pitch) might be a new advent. Perhaps to avoid the federal closure area...or maybe the chockstone crack itself? Regardless, it's a great route with fun climbing all the way.


On the N face. Start just left of "The Gambler".


Nuts and supplement with a few less than finger to hand size cams. A med/lg hex works nice in the roof (or a funky cam placement). Runners, draws, 70M rope.

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By Jimmy D
From: Rapid City
Jul 23, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route! One of the cooler summits in the Rushmore area. Make sure to extend your last piece before pulling the roof!!! I used a shoulder length sling fully extended and had to deal with pretty bad rope drag bringing up my second. In hindsight... I should have used a double length...

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