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Roving for Love 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Suggested by R. Briggs and Levin
Page Views: 1,103
Submitted By: slevin on Jan 1, 2001

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  • Description 

    There are so many great linkups in Eldorado..some take on a personality beyond the scope of any individual pitch of the combination. One of my favorites is a linkup of two classic 70s trad 5.11 routes, Rover and Love Minus Zero- with a little preamble to get the nerve wires firing. Climb "Suparete" (described elsewhere) to begin. From the top of the Lower Ramp find the base of Ruper. Climb Ruper until out R of the corner, nearing the Ruper Crack, and belay. Now climb at 5.11c the steep arete that forms on the left of the large flake which has the Ruper Crack as its right border. This pitch (Roll Over Rover) is a compelling face climbing challenge with some thin gear to three bolts. The clip-ins...are just fine. Belay at nice big bolts atop a nice ledge i.e. Ruper belay below and L of the Ruper Traverse. Now climb up, eventually trending L in a slanting crack system (5.10 R) to the obvious break in the roof above- a ramp leaning out right across the roof- which is climbed with some ingenuity (and long slings) past a good bolt and some runout 5.9+ above. A long pitch, but if you runner your gear right should not cause undue rope drag hardships. Skid down the Upper Ramp portion of the Upper Meadow and find the base of T2. L of T2 is a beautiful, lichenous wall, steep and appealing, which yields a half-rope length of excellent 5.9+ climbing before nearing a ledge to the L with rap slings. Rather than belay there, climb into the obvious, L-facing corner above, a poorly protected 5.10a section, just off-balance enough to require digging for the right level of concentration and balance. Belay below the imposing roof with a crack splitting it, up and to your L. The roof is what most people would consider the crux of the linkup (5.11c PGish), and is pretty pumpy compared to those gym 5.11s. An exciting, gripping pitch to lead- or to follow! Above the roof follow Upper Redgarten nebulous terrain to the top and the East Slabs descent. This combo certainly covers some exquisite Eldo-terrain, and provides a nice remembrance of 70s glory-days 5.11. Alternatively this link-up could be called Roving for Zero, depending upon which side of the romance coin you happen to be at.


    Include RPs or HBs, and aliens or TCUs. Cams to 3". Slings and carabiners. A nice edging shoe would help.

    Comments on Roving for Love Add Comment
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    By Malcolm Daly
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 19, 2001

    That would be a cool linkup. Roll Over Rover is superb. That first pitch of Love Minus Zero is one of the finest pitches at the grade in the canyon and gets no traffic at all. I don't remember it as being too runnout, just that holds that you can't see from below appear right when you need them and you got to get fiddly with the gear. Is that sideways pounded-in stopper still protecting the Love-0 roof?

    This whole link-up can be done at a grade easier by climbing Super Slab to start and finishing right on T-2 rather than left on the Love-0 roof.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 23, 2001

    Interesting link-up.
    By Jason Nelson
    From: SLC, UT
    Nov 18, 2001

    Hang a long runner on the bolt on the roof of Rover so that your second can do the moves. Otherwise the bolts at their feet once they pull the moves and the rope is pulling them back off the roof. Also, long arms are useful to clip this bolt for the leader. I think the bolt is in a bad place (better than no bolt however).

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