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Routes that are a must
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Dec 7, 2010
My friend and I will be spending January through June driving around the U.S. climbing and we are wondering if there are any suggestions for routes or areas to hit and when would be best to go. We are looking for sport routes anything from mid 12's and below and we enjoy routes well below our limit if they have something special to offer.

Some important aspects to us are the scenery around the route (like ocean front would be awesome), fun moves, unique moves, multi-pitch, etc.

Thanks for the help!
Jack Dean
Joined Dec 6, 2010
0 points
Dec 7, 2010

go climb that and let everyone know if it's any good.

or here is a similar thread. Maybe not the BEST climbs, but the longest sport climbs.
Jordan Ramey
From Calgary, Alberta
Joined Jun 15, 2006
3,820 points
Dec 7, 2010
New River Gorge and Red River Gorge. Spring is excellent, though not as good as fall. Sounds like you have a good chunk of time to spend, so if you wanted you could easily devote weeks to each location and never get sick of it. Both areas will offer the occasional break of comfortable weather from Jan-early March, but will be consistently good late March-May. June really starts to heat up, with corresponding nasty humidity. I haven't really climbed extensively around the country, but am quite familiar with the New and with Shelf Road (southern CO) which would provide a beautiful high desert setting and great camping, and is climbable throughout the winter.

As for New specifics, if 12 sport is your game, Meadow River and Endless Wall can keep you quite busy. Meadow offers a little more "wild" feel, and Endless affords fantastic views and excellent exposure. Summersville Lake offers stacks of high quality 10s-12s with an interesting setting on the reservoir which doesn't start to fill until spring. Bubba City isn't as interesting of a setting but has high quality routes in all grades.

A few route suggestions at the New:
Masuko 11a, @ Whippoorwill
Long Wall at Summersville Lake - 10s and 11s of supreme quality, such as:
Jesus is my License Plate 10d
For What? 10b
World at War 11d
Maximum Overdrive 11c
Satisfaction Guaranteed 11a

At Endless:
Legacy 11a
Discombobulated 11b
Strike a Scowl 10b
Fool Effect 5.9 (easy but fun, long, and rewarding)
Aesthetica 11c
Stim-o-Stam 11c

At Bubba City:
Immaculate Combustion 10d
Sheer Energy 11a

At Cotton Top:
Q-Tip 11b
End of Innocence 11c
Cottonmouth 10a

I could go on, but I'll stop. The stone at the New and the Red is so fantastic.

If you find yourself wishing you were a little stronger for your favorite route at the New, head to the Red for a bit and you will bulk up.

All three places have excellent new guidebooks and the star ratings will give you a good start as far as what is not to be missed.

Have fun.
Layne Wyse
From Portland, OR
Joined Aug 19, 2008
50 points
Dec 7, 2010
Inti Watana in Red Rocks, Las Vegas, Nevada. mixed but mostly sport, Easy 5.10 with the all trad option of finishing on The Resoulution Arete. Reed Fee
From White Salmon WA
Joined Oct 14, 2008
20 points

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