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Route to Glory 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Josh Warfield and AJ Smith
New Route: Yes
Season: Probably best in Fall
Page Views: 981
Submitted By: AJ Smith on Jun 25, 2011

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climbing up the crux of the route, the short chimn...


Shares 2 pitches with "Book of Saturdays", but removes the first pitch and the long traverse. Pitch 1- Starts on a large slab with thin cracks for protection, then traverses over to large grass filled crack. Pulling grass can reveal the pro. Large cams or large hexes are a must. Wild country #6? . Pitch 2- Belay stance is to the left of the major grassy chimney of the second pitch; Use small nuts to protect belay. Look for stuck Omega Pacific nut to find out where to set up belay. Follow the large chimney up to the roof. Some protection can be found by venturing out onto the slab, but stay mostly to the chimney. Crux can be found right before the cave area. Pull a couple of exposed moves, and Metoliuschimney up a large overhanging crack. Traverse into the cave area. Watch the loose rock, and maintain your footing. Pitch 3-Belay from the cave area; protecting this can be tricky, but there should be a protectable crack out and around the corner of the cave. Look for a stuck nut to give you and idea where to place. Head out the cave and around the arete. Easy pulls up to the top of the climb. Top out and enjoy the view!


See description


Bring a lot of gear. A few large cams would not hurt as "O Sh*t pieces". Metolius flaring nuts are extremely helpful. They hold perfectly int he smaller cracks.

Photos of Route to Glory Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fist winter ascent of the wall?  We climbed BOS wi...
Fist winter ascent of the wall? We climbed BOS wi...

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By Brandon Snyder
From: Marquette MI
Jun 26, 2011

the last 2 pitches of BOS are located about 70 feet to climbers left from the line in the pic so i'm wondering if this is an entire new route the description sounds like the last 2 pitches of BOS
By AJ Smith
Jun 28, 2011

Nope, sorry! I miss labelled the route in the last photo. My bad.
By Evan B.
Jul 30, 2011

Did this route last weekend and had a blast, defenitley an adventure for sure! I thought about bailing after coming face to face with the belay cave after pitch two, which offered very little in the way of an anchor, but eventually found suitable placements, and the view from the top was defenitley worth it! Just to clarify you only need a single rope for the raps, a thought which didn't enter my mind until i was halfway down the first rap haha.
By jon jugenheimer
From: Madison
Sep 21, 2015

AJ, can you put your pic back up with your line? I just did a direct start to BOS and wondering if it is your route? I thought it was only 5.6/7 slab to the chimney directly below the roof so I think I might have climbed another variation as it was no where close to 5.9.

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