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Route Stealers From Hell 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Hatchett and Jeff Kitterick, 1992
Page Views: 2,509
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 23, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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BETA PHOTO: Jacquie, thinking that she's on the 5.7 Wampum (ne...

Description 

Past the Big Chief-center wall's cave area and around a corner you will notice a large water stain extending to the ground (the route running up this stain is called Wampum, 5.7). The next set of bolts to the right is Route Stealers From Hell.

Climb a face with small holds with a crux around the first bolt. After the initial crux, climbing gets easier for the last few bolts.

This route is probably named because people wanting to warm up on War Path (5.9) located around the corner towards the cave from this route, found someone on the route.

This is probably one of the better warmups if the easier climbs are being used.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.


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By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Aug 24, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun climb, but not sustained. A good way to break into 5.10.
By Kyle sharp
From: Reno, NV
Aug 6, 2017

Josh Horniak's excellent North Tahoe guide gives this climb a 5.10c R rating. I would agree, as the direct start begins with a few bouldery moves to clip a fairly high first bolt and then continuing up into a 5.10 section after the second bolt.

The route described here on MP takes a less direct start, avoiding the 10c R section by climbing Wampum (5.8) to the left and then traversing right at the second bolt of Route Stelers From Hell.
By Jack Myers
Aug 25, 2017

It feels like this route rating is based on the Wampum variation - 10a, where one starts on wampum to get to the first bolt. Starting to the right of the bolt line is 10c and is the original line. This has been documented and drawn into the topo in the Big Chief guidebook since 2005. The new North Tahoe guidebook basically xeroxed all this information and instead of a topo used a photo.

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