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Route One T 

Route One 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Mark Powell, Beverly Powell, and Don Lauria
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: Guy H. on Aug 24, 2008

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The start of the route...

Description 

This is an enjoyable route that is well protected by the Needles standards. There are still a handful of runouts on easier rock.

Scramble up to gully and pull on to the rock from a large chockstone. Angle up to the right and clip a fixed pin, which can be backed up with a large brass nut. Climb the face to the left until you can join the arete and a nut placement (#10 HB). Make a 5.10a move on the arete, even though the bolt tempts you to the right. After the bolt, angle left to the arete and place a flared #1 camalot which can be backup up with a small ball nut. Clip the final bolt (crux) and angle right on easier rock to a 2 bolt anchor.

Location 

Start the route on top of the huge chockstone...

Protection 

One set of Aliens (blue through red), nuts, #1 camalot, and optional ball nuts

Bring lots of long slings to reduce drag.


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