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The Canal Zone
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Route Canal T 
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Whopper, The S 

Route Canal 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,276
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (214)
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Come on now, a rack's not that heavy... bring one ...

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  • Description 

    Climb the clean dihedral crack, face climb past the bolt and pull through to the anchors.


    See the photo topo.


    Gear to 4" and one bolt, finish at the anchors on Gondolier Arete.

    Photos of Route Canal Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Myong workin' the crack.
    Myong workin' the crack.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just need a couple cams....
    Just need a couple cams....

    Comments on Route Canal Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 7, 2017
    By Alison Conrad
    Jul 25, 2008

    Gear used 2 #1 Cams, 2 #0.75, and 1 or 2 #0.5 cams. I also used one quickdraw. A little mungy after the bolt. A better alternative maybe to clip the last 2 bolts on Gondolier Arete to finish the route.
    By Tim Kline
    From: Littleton, co
    Aug 31, 2008

    Excellent route, I'm so glad it wasn't bolted, there is one bolt at the top you can use or just place a nut. Great dihedral. Great moves all the way through to the top.
    By Jeff Welch
    From: Denver, CO
    Sep 10, 2008

    Route Canal to the last two bolts on Gondolier Arete is a three star line, IMO (Gondolier Canal?). 5.8 liebacks or crack climbing leads to an obvious, easy traverse into the crux section of the arete. Protects well with medium cams (#1.25 - 2.5 Friends).
    By Steve Knapp
    From: Highlands Ranch, CO
    Sep 13, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    This can be done on toprope using the same anchor as Gondolier Arete after someone has led it. Super fun crack in a dihedral. Would be a very nice lead.
    By AOSR
    From: Wherever we park!
    Sep 17, 2008
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Jam, layback, or stem... user's choice. A fun route that can be done many ways. Nothing too big for gear.
    By Casey Bernal
    From: Arvada, CO
    Sep 24, 2008
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This route is a good TR but not worth taking up a rack for.
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Sep 24, 2008
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Bolt at the top works as a good directional to TR from the arete route. Fun and somewhat similar to the 5.7 crack route on Lookout Mountain Crag. Hollow flake midway makes for a questionable first gear placement.
    By Ben Burnett
    From: Colorado
    Jun 2, 2010
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Good hand crack - for CCC - you only need a couple cams #0.75 to #2 Camalot would do.
    By Hoag Hoag
    From: Littleton, CO
    Jul 18, 2011
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This is a fun route. It would be a 5.9 if there weren't so many face hold options on the line. I used a BD 1, BD 0.75, A finger-sized Metolius, another BD 0.75, and a quick draw for the bolt. It's a fun route and a good place to practice hand jams. The lower part of the crack is also a good place to teach someone how to build and anchor. Bring some BD 2s if you plan on doing that.
    By slim
    Aug 9, 2011
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Not sure where a 4" piece would go. Really nice route with a well placed bolt and fun, secure climbing.
    By Robert Buswold
    From: Northglenn, CO
    Sep 6, 2011

    I had fun on this climb today, but I did it top-rope from the Gondolier Arete anchors, because I didn't see the point in bringing trad-gear to the Canal Zone. Definitely would be a good lead for someone working on leading 5.8-5.9.
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    Oct 16, 2013
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Straightforward (huge relief compared to trying Vedauwoo 5.9!!!) with a little bit of UK 5a bridging at the top.
    By Snow Lily
    From: Golden
    Aug 9, 2014

    We took a rack. Hard but fun and satisfying. The crux is near the top. Come on, bring your rack, it's not that far of a walk from the car. Go for it, sporty folks!
    By Dylan Demyanek
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 10, 2016
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Very fun and relaxed route! It went really easily on just a single set of nuts. I think I used 4 of them in total.
    By ALuckyDuck
    From: Denver, CO
    Jul 26, 2017
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Those blocks have become very shifty. I remember a couple years ago this route had no loose rock to speak of. At this point, it's an accident waiting to happen.
    By Jeremy Y
    Aug 7, 2017

    The block in the crack had broken into the 3 pieces, the top 100 lbs of which could be pulled out like a book on a shelf and was a deathtrap. We trundled it. I don't think it really changes the difficulty of the route. There is room for good gear behind where the block was.

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