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Route A 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 53
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Dec 2, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Start at the bulge and head on up the line of bolt...

Description 

Route A: Takes a bold line up the worst rock on the crag. This one has a bail link on the second bolt. Start in the broken area and work your way up the buttress, keeping right of the exfoliating overlap to your left. Really crappy rock and 6 bolts to Mussy Hooks.

Location 

Takes the left-hand buttress of the crag when looking at the north face.

Susan's note: The route is basically east facing, your back would be towards Hillbilly Pillar. Start slightly left of the arete.

Protection 

6 bolts to Mussy Hooks


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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 2, 2012

Strangely small bail quick-link at second bolt. Not the crux, but the bailers had more sense than we did. We topped this rascal out without any discernible crux but the top gets lower angle and super grainy. So much so when it was time to lower, I moved the rope to a neighboring anchor to help reduce unnecessary wear on the cord.

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