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Route 66 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 3,406
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 23, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Route 66 5.12a

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Just left of License To Thrill is a stiff problem that fires up to the left side of a roof. Route 66 has pumpy, fingery climbing on small pockets and edges. Crux was a bit below the roof and needed good contact strength - seems like you are always on your arms. The roof sequence is described as bizarre in the Ruckman/Ruckman guide. Tricky yes, with an overhead bolt to start, but it runs out once you stand up over the roof. Definitely worth a burn.


8 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos of Route 66 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Second roof crux on Route 66 5.12a.  Photo by Peri...
Second roof crux on Route 66 5.12a. Photo by Peri...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 20, 2017
By richard magill
Aug 13, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Awesome route - tricky finish.
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This has become one of my favs in AF. This climb has 2 distinct sections. The lower overhanging part gets the arms burning with hard moves in between good holds, the footwork (if you can find any feet) is the real puzzler. The lower part crux is at the 4th bolt. After you get past the pump on the lower half you are rewarded with a no hands rest. The upper half crux is getting past the large roof (i wont tell you how, you get to figure it out). Then you get to a jug and move left to some crimpers. This part is tricky because they are hard to see with some sloping feet. You finish it out on a couple of great jugs.

This climb is well protected except when you place the draw at the big roof. Go up left on jugs and clip it with a long draw with a locking biner at the bolt. The angle on this draw on a fall tends to open up gates.

The top chains have been replaced with mussy hooks for easy lowering. Its a great climb.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Jul 10, 2010

Anchor is chains again; no more mussy hooks.

(So don't forget two draws for the chains, like I did.)
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jul 11, 2010

Two for two...second set of mussy hooks I put in AF Cyn, second set kifed.
By Andy McAdams
Aug 25, 2011

Just sent this route today. Their are draws at the top for lowering as of today. Having climbed this route multiple times, I think that the best aspect of this route is that there are many different betas to the cruxes.
By Captain Crusher
From: Salt Lake City
May 9, 2012

Bail biners at the anchors are severely worn. I would recommend not using them.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
May 3, 2015

An t-rex wingspan will have you dynoing sideways between jugs to pull the roof. The no hands rest detracts from the overall quality, but still fun.
By bheller
From: SL UT
May 3, 2015

SW- avoid your paleo curse by climbing down and right from the giant roof jug, and then tackling the overhang more or less straight on;)
By lech
Feb 24, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

When I did this route one of the bolts was old small and lose. It was right where the route curves in and gets easy but still scary. Don't assume all the bots will hold. Climb this with care.
By apross
Feb 25, 2016

Bolts were replaced a few years ago, feel free to fall all you want.
By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
Nov 21, 2016

I replaced the bolt Lech was talking about a little over a year ago, new one is a stainless hilti kb3.
By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 20, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A 3 star route to a 1 star finish

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