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Old New Place
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
4-Star Arete TR 
Bee Sting T,TR 
Berserker T,TR 
Crucifriction TR 
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 
Gulf Stream T,TR 
High Roof Left T,TR 
High Roof Right T,TR 
Jet Stream T,TR 
Momentum T,TR 
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 
Route 10 T,TR 
Route 16 T,TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 7 T,TR 
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 
Songs of Love TR 
Tetherball T,TR 
Total Abstinence T,TR 

Route 20 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Start in a corner just right of Climb #19, the lightning bolt shaped finger crack. Move up the corner that takes almost no pro and make a few face moves to the right. If you consider putting gear in the lightning bolt finger crack to be cheating, look for small nut placements and its probably best if you don't fall. If you stem up the corner higher, then step right, its a little easier and better protected (assuming you count the finger crack as "on").

Mantle and step into a right-facing corner that overhangs above you with a weird-shaped offwidth crack in the back. This is followed by another mantel onto a horizontal crack, and then a hand crack through a fun roof.

This is a fun climb that is overlooked in my opinion, with a few sections with unusual movement. The start is scary when you're leading, and thus is not recommended for sketchy 5.9 leaders.


Near the right end of the ONP; this is the crack through the roof just left of Berserker. Just right of the lightning bolt finger crack.


From RPs and TCUs up to a #3 camalot.
2-bolt anchor.

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