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Routes in Old New Place
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4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Berserker T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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High Roof Left T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X |
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Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Route 10 T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Route 16 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Route 17 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Unnamed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,010 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Sep 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Start in a corner just right of Climb #19, the lightning bolt shaped finger crack. Move up the corner that takes almost no pro and make a few face moves to the right. If you consider putting gear in the lightning bolt finger crack to be cheating, look for small nut placements and its probably best if you don't fall. If you stem up the corner higher, then step right, its a little easier and better protected (assuming you count the finger crack as "on").
Mantle and step into a right-facing corner that overhangs above you with a weird-shaped offwidth crack in the back. This is followed by another mantel onto a horizontal crack, and then a hand crack through a fun roof.
This is a fun climb that is overlooked in my opinion, with a few sections with unusual movement. The start is scary when you're leading, and thus is not recommended for sketchy 5.9 leaders.
Mantle and step into a right-facing corner that overhangs above you with a weird-shaped offwidth crack in the back. This is followed by another mantel onto a horizontal crack, and then a hand crack through a fun roof.
This is a fun climb that is overlooked in my opinion, with a few sections with unusual movement. The start is scary when you're leading, and thus is not recommended for sketchy 5.9 leaders.
Location
Near the right end of the ONP; this is the crack through the roof just left of Berserker. Just right of the lightning bolt finger crack.
Photos
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