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Route 17 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: George Perkins on Oct 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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An insecure crux from a seam down low is best protected with a large RP nut. Falling here would land you on nasty blocks from 8-10' up, if the gear's no good. Pull onto easier terrain, step right, and head up climbing on easier paired hand cracks to the top.


10' right of Rattlesnake Crack is a thin crack, 15' left of the prominent arete.

Route 17 in the ONP photo


1 set cams, 1 set nuts to 3". A large RP is useful at the crux about 10' up.

2-bolt anchor.

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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 5, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The start of this route spooks me with unprotected 5.9 moves up 10 feet with a ankle-breaking landing if you come off. That flaring crack 8 feet up doesn't seem to take pro very well or at all. It's always a relief to get a hold of that flake but even still, there are a couple moves to be made before a good .3 or .4 placement.
By Ed Santiago
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 26, 2015

So, um, you might notice the start is now a bit different. Sorry about that.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Aug 31, 2015

I climbed this again, and didn't notice the missing flake as making it that much harder, and maybe a little better. However, I have always felt this was a hard 5.9, especially on lead. A large brassie is pretty crucial gear at the crux.

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