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4-Star Arete TR 
Bee Sting T,TR 
Berserker T,TR 
Crucifriction TR 
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 
Gulf Stream T,TR 
High Roof Left T,TR 
High Roof Right T,TR 
Jet Stream T,TR 
Momentum T,TR 
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 
Route 10 T,TR 
Route 16 T,TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 7 T,TR 
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 
Songs of Love TR 
Tetherball T,TR 
Total Abstinence T,TR 

Route 16 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 507
Submitted By: George Perkins on Mar 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Fishing for the finger locks above the crux roof. ...

Description 

Climb a bouldery start in a seam protectable with a large RP preventing groundfall. This start is the crux of the unnamed 5.9 crack that goes right. Step left below a small triangular roof. Turn this roof (crux) pulling on finger locks in a couple of pods in the seam and smeary nubs for feet (TCUs or small nuts). Continue up the crack in the shallow open book above (5.10, small nuts and TCUs).

Location 

This climb is route 16 in the ONP topo/photo

It starts about 15' right of Rattlesnake Crack in a seam shared with Route 17 then busts left of that route.

Protection 

Cams from TCUs to hands, especially #00 and #0 TCUs or equivalent tiny cams. 1 set nuts, including RPs.
2-bolt anchor.


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