REI Community
(1) Koala Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buffalo Power S 
Cool Air S 
Cool Man Luke T 
Crazies T 
Exercise in Futility T 
Exit of Humanity S 
Heat Stroke T 
Hero of the Day S 
I'm your life T 
Keep The Faith T 
King of Pain S 
Knob, The S 
Round Here S 
Round River S 
Round River Direct S 
Round There S 
Ryan's Arete S 
Ryan's Direct S 
Suck my Kiss S 
Thin Air S 
Through Being Cool S 
To Live is to Die S 

Round River 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
Season: Cool Summer Days
Page Views: 7,422
Submitted By: Mattyg on May 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Koala Rock 4/18/15

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Three pitches of moderate sport climbing in a beautiful setting above the River. First pitch goes from large tree at the base up to anchors. Second pitch can go left of slab above anchors, or slab can go direct (5.7?). Third pitch goes left and around catwalk then up to the top.


Route is halfway (almost) up Burma Rd., east of Smith and above the canal.


All bolts, with fixed anchors at belays. Finish w/ scramble to backside of rock for spicey single free-rap to uphill side of formation. 5.7 Variation on second pitch is sparsely bolted.

Photos of Round River Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Round River, great route!
Top of Round River, great route!
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the first belay ledge. Nice little spot ...
View from the first belay ledge. Nice little spot ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Liz at the first bolt (~20+ ft)
Liz at the first bolt (~20+ ft)
Rock Climbing Photo: JohnK belaying Kara to the first pitch anchors of ...
JohnK belaying Kara to the first pitch anchors of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Original Round River route on Koala Rock.
BETA PHOTO: Original Round River route on Koala Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the 5.7 variation at the Second pitch of...
BETA PHOTO: Following the 5.7 variation at the Second pitch of...

Comments on Round River Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 27, 2017
By mark d
May 31, 2006

this is not a sport route. only the first pitch is bolted.
By Danny Darby
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 16, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

1st pitch is all bolts. 2nd pitch starts with a couple of bolts and continues up the run out slab. Can use small stoppers here. You can link these two pitches if needed.
I recommend the Round River Direct 3rd pitch. 5.9 with plenty of bolts. From the top of the 2nd pitch you basically follow a line of shiny new bolts straight to the top of Koala Rock. Great pitch.
By corvegas
From: the depths of oregon
Mar 12, 2007

Link P1 and P2 with 60m to the nice belay ledge. Carry mabey 1 or 2 thin peices for the runout on P2, and mabey 1 or 2 larger peices for the last pitch.
By John Butters
From: Portland, Oregon
May 12, 2008

1st pitch has good bolts. 2nd pitch is protected for the first 20 feet, then nothing. I just carried a set up stoppers and was able to protect the 2nd pitch reasonably. 3rd pitch has no bolts if you stay true to "Round River" and don't end up moving over to "Round River Direct" (a 5.9 alternate ending that is well bolted.) I was able to protect the first 30 feet with stoppers but the last 40 feet was unprotectable to the top. A bit sketch but a great climb! Oh, and it is in the shade in the morning so bring layers!!!
By DWech
From: Fort Collins
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This route is greatly improved with the addition of the direct finish. P1 and P2 (do this in 3 so as to hear your belayer) are no harder than 5.5 or so, but it's good to take some medium-to-large nuts for one placement on the long crack of P2. P3 (the direct finish) is runout a bit, but it's easy after the last bolt.
By liveit P
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Jun 16, 2010

Had a blast on this route. Very easy climbing with plenty of bolts on the first pitch. 2nd pitch has potential nut and small cam placements, there was a nut stuck and I clipped it, didn't feel the need for any more pro. We did the Direct finish which I think is 5.8. Bolted very well (can't see all the bolts from the belay.) Rappelled off the backside which is a free rap, a great way to end the whole climb.
By Bryan Hall
From: Portland, Oregon
Jun 13, 2013

Fun route with great views.

Second pitch needs trad gear or you can just run it out like crazy on the giant potholes and low angle terrain to the anchor.

Third pitch variation is worth doing. Round River Direct is a nice 5.8 and is well bolted to the top with the crux at the second bolt.
By DeepSeaPrawn Hemphill
From: Denver, CO
Sep 15, 2014

Very fun easy route! Views are spectacular! Do it at sunset. I did the "direct" 5.8 third pitch variation, which was really fun and well-protected. Doing it again, I would probably link the first and second pitches. For the second pitch, offset nuts and small offset cams are useful. The first bolt on the first pitch is quite high, but it is very easy and secure climbing up to it, so don't be intimidated (and you can fit a couple pieces of gear in if you really wanted).
By S.Lee
May 10, 2015

Second pitch protects well enough with a few small stoppers. Would definitely recommend linking the first and second pitch together. Fun route
By jp.brown
From: Silverdale, WA
Apr 7, 2016

We linked pitch 1-2, placed 1 nut and 2 small cams.
By Ryan Bowen
From: Bend, Or
Mar 27, 2017

This was my first lead. I linked P1 and P2, and just ran it out. Scary for sure, but very easy to do. Asterisk Pass seems sketchier than P2 of this climb. Huge Belay ledge is huge. You could pitch a tent up there.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About