REI Community
Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange T,S 
Agronaut, The S 
Banana Head S 
Bete Noir T,S 
Big Papa T 
Big Rip, The S 
Bon Temps Rouler T 
Captain, The T 
Carrion S 
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 
Dance Connection S 
Davey Jones Locker T 
Dikenstein S 
End of the Tether T 
Eyeless in Gaza S 
Frigid Relations S 
Mithras S 
Pastryworks S 
Pointy Teeth S 
Promised Land, The S 
Razor Crack T 
Romper Room S 
Rough Boys T 
Sewer Rat  T 
Shadowline T 
She's Crafty S 
Stiletto T 
Sundog Delight  S 
Tar and Feather T 
Tits Out for the Lads T 
Vanishing Point S 
Vultures T 
Yellow Matter Custard S 

Rough Boys 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Doug Madara & Choe Brooks April, 1981
Page Views: 1,753
Submitted By: matthew ritter on Apr 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The crux of Rough Boys.


This one will wake you up if 5.10a is your limit! I must quote the Ed Webster guidebook here for, it is my bible, and I enjoy the wording for its understated nature.
P1 "Climb on to a moderate slab, protect under a thin arch, then face climb (5.9+) up to a small, horizontal ledge six feet right of the actual dihedral. Clip a piton (with relief), step left, and stem up (5.10a) to good holds and a stance. Escape left around a small roof to a belay/rappel anchor."

The transition from the slab to the small ledge is protected below your feet on a slab as you pull onto a vertical face (kinda hairy).
Clipping the flexy piton feels good as you move into the fun dihedral.

the book describes two options for a second pitch, both of which are overgrown and need to be cleaned. I've never ventured higher, though to me it looks like worthwhile crack climbing.

This is an exceptionally fun pitch that is marred only by the condition of the 2nd pitch. I hope some cleaning will yield more fun to complete the Rough Boys experience.


Around the corner from the Right Roof, and immediately right of Fat Girls with Acne


small cams and nuts. I found a .75 Camalot useful up top

Comments on Rough Boys Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 30, 2017
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Apr 21, 2009

Would this be a candidate for a PG13 or an R rating?
By Chad Laflamme
From: North Conway, NH
Apr 21, 2009

I would say possibly a Pg-13.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Apr 22, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

it protects fine, you just don't want to blow the moves on the first wire. Great route, even though dirty the second pitch isn't bad.
By burlap submariner
Sep 22, 2009

this route protects really well, the flake before the corner system takes lots of micro nuts, if you want it you can protect it well.
By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Nov 21, 2009

the gear is good, the falls would suck
By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Sep 19, 2011

Jerry Handren recently cleaned the crack to the far right and it is good to go. Real nice route...if you like your heart in your throat! :)
By charlesg3 Gruenwald
From: Cambridge, MA
Jul 23, 2012

Great climbing through the corner. The pin is in a pretty poor location though.

Also, there is a second pitch that traverses right about 40 feet to a crack that goes to the top. Also great climbing, although it is a bit dirty.
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jul 26, 2012

Very fun climb with great variety on both pitches. As of this posting, there is an anchor atop pitch 1 comprised of a few fixed nuts and rappel rings, in good condition. The second pitch is definitely worth doing though, so bring some small cams and nuts and go for it! A 60m will get you back to the ground (without any extra, so tie some knots) from the tree anchor on the ledge atop pitch 2.
By Rich Brereton
From: Pownal, ME
Oct 20, 2014

Was at Sundown this June hanging out at the base of Eyeless when I heard a kerfuffle from up around Rough Boys - jangling gear, the unmistakeable thump of body on rock. This dude had taken a short fall on the pin on the first pitch and it pulled. He took a good whipper and got bounced around some but was totally fine. Afterward he showed us the pin, a bugaboo IIRC - it was all rusted and manky, had lost a lot of metal to corrosion. Excellent reminder about trusting pins in New England (i.e. don't). Anyway, I don't know if a placement was left behind.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 29, 2015

Not surprised that pin was mank. Hope that a placement was left behind---wouldn't want to do those moves with nuthin.
By Joe Mucci
From: Chattanooga, TN
Aug 18, 2016

This pin? Yes, it was truth though it was the flake that failed on the fall. The flake exploded and the pin popped right out. I was stemming out a few moves above the pin, in the corner, hanging onto a block and my left foot slipped on the left facing wall of the corner. It was humid and I think the lichen was slippery. Next thing I remember I was falling, bounced of the wall and landed down hill from my belayer, 5 feet off the ground. A big fixed angle caught me. With the flake gone I'm not sure how the route has changed. I can tell you this though, with the pin gone I'd hate to take that fall again.

Rock Climbing Photo: This pin?
This pin?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 18, 2016

Yikes !! looks like one of Doug's originals.....prolly should get a bolt now because it's a quality route
By Joe Mucci
From: Chattanooga, TN
Aug 19, 2016

Looking back in retrospect, I should have said something sooner. My bad. Just kinda wanted to forget this one yah know? Not sure how much damage was done to the flake but from the ground it looked mostly gone. Maybe someone with some talent and a knack for these things would like to assess the condition. It's was my worst fall in twenty years of climbing (though I admit I'm quite conservative on the risk taking scale). With that said if theres no place to get gear in there i would vote to change it to an R-rating.
By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Apr 30, 2017

I just climbed this again and thought I'd offer my unsolicited beta. climb the flake. Step left and ignore that upwardly driven angle at the base of the corner. It will fail you. Instead place a kinda flared but ok hand sized piece and a small finger sized cam in the same spot. Bomber! Clip one of your ropes to them. Step back right and grab the jug ledge. Make a committing feeling reach to another great hold. This flat jug will accept a funky but pretty good micro wire. clip your other rope to this piece. Delicately step left to a good one pad gaston/sidepull, take a moment to find the good stem, and look at the left arête. There is a small jug that takes a slung piece of dyneema pretty well, I can't guarantee it's bomber but it sure seemed it to me, it would definitely hold your weight if you get too scared to climb, get another small finger sized piece ready for the somewhat sketchy block before the welcome rest ledge, it's not so bad...the rest of P 1 it is exceptionally well protected and fun! Jerry recommends double ropes. Not too popular these days but just throw a half rope in your kit and you'll be waaay more psyched to fall of this route without the feeling that your gonna snag your feet on the rope and flip upside down (you will) . You'll also appreciate the other rope as you start climbing the 5.10 crack on P2 after traversing 40feet! Plus if you continue around the corner to the Lookout Wall, two ropes make the rappelling more enjoyable. 5.10 climbers SHOULD get on this route it simply helps if you are a 5.10 climber and a 5.11 gear tinkerer. I didn't look too closely but it seems like the old piton could be replaced by a bugaboo...Absolutely a route not to be missed, you could always defy the laws of trad climbing and rap in after climbing Bon Temps Rouler another unbearably good trad route at 5.8+ 5.9 G crack deliciousness

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About