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Rotten Reality 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FFA Edmund Ward
Page Views: 504
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 29, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: past the little start crux. first bolt at the feet...

Description 

This steep diagonal crack provides lots of interesting climbing; Off-width technique, finger-to-fist size jams, big face holds and awkward rest stances make it an interesting and committing lead. Midway up is a bolt, which is where most people end the climb. The upper section is "grunty".

Location 

At the far eastern end of La Cueva is a grotto area. Rotten Reality is the obvious right tending crack.

Protection 

2 3/8" bolts protect up to the crack. The crack has good gear placements if you hunt for them, but there is also a lot of flaring and crumbly rock which should be avoided. The mid-point bolt is a 3/8" and there are two hangerless 1/4" bolts here as well. From the top, one can walk north and do a ~100' rappel from the route to the right called "Banana Splits".


Photos of Rotten Reality Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rotten reality: Three bolts and gear to the 2 bolt...
BETA PHOTO: Rotten reality: Three bolts and gear to the 2 bolt...
Rock Climbing Photo: Evaluating the degree of "Rotten-ness" o...
Evaluating the degree of "Rotten-ness" o...

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