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Self Loathing National Monument
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Rotor Rampage T 

Rotor Rampage 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Z. Harrison, B. McCord
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,693
Submitted By: Blake M on Mar 2, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Jeff Snyder on pitch 2


With 3 sustained pitches, minimum munge, a double dose of thin hands magic and a unique Sedona summit this modern pleasure cruise will blow your hair back. Or the helicopters will. Either way, prepare to be blown away.

Pitch 1 | 5.11+?! - 60'

Follow rightward trending bolts to a rough warm-up crux, surmount it and continue to the end of the rainbow. 6 Sport Clips to a gear belay, .3s and Red C3.

Pitch 2 | 5.11+ - 115'

Plug, Chug and Thug up the steep corner to a wacky heroic hands bulge. 3D your way through it and emerge onto slabby terrain and more thin hands, remember your in Sedona and push your way to the Hotel Munge Vista belay. The bolt is for the protection of your protection. Two bolt belay.

Pitch 3 | 5.11 - 105'

Slab Mantel left off Munge Vista and traverse past bolts and through a sporty plastic crux. Skip up pods in the crack to thin hands boulevard. When the road ends, blast left to the security of the Body Jam. Gear belay #4 and #5.

Pitch 4 | 5.8b/c PG-15 - 70'

Sleeping bag shuffle up the low angle chimney. Uponst emerging, step left, walk past 2 sport clips and hump onto the ridge munge blocks. Two bolt belay.

Pitch 5 | 5.9c+ - 28.56'

Mantle model jugs while not factoring the anchor. Walk right to a bolt and boulder up left and right finally dancing to the ugly duckling summit blob (Burcham Inc© Approved). Possible to link with pitch 4 if you have tight shoes.


70m REQUIRED! or 2 36m ropes

Rap off the summit block to the west and walk the sidewalk to a station (Burcham Inc© Approved) on the tip. Rap 34.7652 (AKA TIE KNOTS) meters to a semi hidden station on Body Jam down and left. Make a second rap to the next ledge below. Then twirl to the ground and your packs.

CUZ CO© NEW ROUTE GUARANTEE - You will have fun or your money back, oh yeah, that's right, you didn't do anything, you're just climbing. Have Fun.


Hike from Sombart Ln trailhead 5 min to a 4 way intersection. Go straight and veer right on the lower slickrock bench. Follow trail along slick rock benches for 15 min. Exit left on last bench to a trail leading up and left. Follow this faint trail up to the drainage below the Self Loathing National Monument. Where the trail turns downhill, look for easy passage uphill, working right to slickrock slabs, and straight up to the climb. Starts on the left side of the West face.


1 - Red c3
Doubles .3 to #2
Extra .5-#1
Double Extra .75 (Optional)
1 - #3,#4,#5
7 Runners

Photos of Rotor Rampage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Snyder with his 3D glasses on
Jeff Snyder with his 3D glasses on
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Snyder on the third pitch  www.blakemccordpho...
Jeff Snyder on the third pitch www.blakemccordpho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of first three pitches
BETA PHOTO: Topo of first three pitches
Rock Climbing Photo: Big time rotor action on the summit
Big time rotor action on the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: The "sidewalk" that leads out to the lon...
The "sidewalk" that leads out to the lon...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the end of pitch 3. Almost to the heartbre...
Nearing the end of pitch 3. Almost to the heartbre...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2!  Easily 5 out of 4 stars.   and not even ...
Pitch 2! Easily 5 out of 4 stars. and not even ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Psyched to be past what I thought was the physical...
Psyched to be past what I thought was the physical...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle coming around the arete on pitch 1. Past the ...
Kyle coming around the arete on pitch 1. Past the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Topo
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the third pitch
Top of the third pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit

Comments on Rotor Rampage Add Comment
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By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Mar 3, 2016

Damn fun. Quality cracks, and all that other stuff. I checked into a single room at The Munge Vista, I'm certain it's comfy for two maybe three hours. Excellent balcony. Classic 5 star view of the desert.

I am a little disappointed in this site because I could only select 1 bomb instead of 4 or 5 on the quality scale above. This thing is da bombs!
By Zach Harrison
Mar 3, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Awesome hero action. Rad views. Red Bull helicopter fly-by's. A whole piggy bank spent on chain. All features tested with crowbar and hammer for durability. Dueling money pitches. What else could you ask for in choss? Get your Self Loathing on!
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 5, 2016

What a great route! Insta-classic for sure!

A few additions: P1&2 face west, 3&4 north, and only the 30' top out pitch faces south, so if your name is Trevor Bowman and you refuse to climb in the sun when the temp is above 45°F this route could be a good choice for when it's warm out provided you start before noon.

Pitches 1, 2, and 3 were all $$$$. I actually thought gaining the crack on P3 to be the hardest and most insecure part though.

Also, I blew by the belay at the top of P3 because I didn't think the #4 would fit (reasoning it might higher) and ended up linking 3 and 4 together. If you do this you can forgo bringing the #4 and #5 altogether (I also never placed the #3); sure, you'll have to run out the start of P4, but it's a secure 5.8 chimney and if you're climbing 11+ in Sedona you'll be just fine.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Mar 5, 2016

I also refuse to start before noon.
By Paul Davidson
Mar 7, 2016

Sweet looking line!
By Eva Christ
Oct 3, 2016

Very cool route! Face part of pitch three seemed hardest to me. (short me?) Thanks for a sweet new Sedona route for thin hands lovers!
By Brent Barghahn
From: SLC, UT
Jan 1, 2017

Great line. P1, 2, and 3 felt consistent in difficulty but in different styles. Also, not sure if Body Jam Direct has been done, or if it is in Self Loathing National Monument's master plan, but it looks like a pleasantly wide more-moderate line up the tower. With the rap line as is, BJD even has anchors! Looks to be plug and play ready.
By Blake M
Jan 2, 2017

Body Jam (5.11) is a Bloom/Cosentino route circa 1999 according to Castles In The Sand. The last two rap stations you use were existing on it but we did not find any anchors on the top of the sidewalk or summit. It's unclear to me if it went to the top. Castles In The Sand lists it as 2 pitches/300ft which doesn't align with the anchors on it at all....

Glad you enjoyed the route!

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