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Rotissima Bueno 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: SG,PN 1980 (Steiger's Guide '85)
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Ethan S. on Jul 10, 2016

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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

According to Steiger's Guide "the trick is to prevent yourself from interrupting the crux sequence by pulling over the lip to easy ground".

This route can easily be found as a left leaning, lower-angle, slabby corner with two pitons visible from the ground. The climb begins to get more strenuous as the corner becomes cleaner some lie backing and stemming become necessary. The pro seemed good and the pitons were well backed up.

I pulled around a lip at the second piton; this variation is still fun and goes at 10+ before easing up, this felt very natural so I thought this was the line. Apparently another opportunity to exit the corner can be found higher up, and also goes at hard 5.10.

The route's real crux occurs when one remains in the corner.

Protection 

Single rack with nuts and plenty of slings


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By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 11, 2016

Despite what Steiger's topo shows, I think the place he is talking about in his description is actually about 15-20 feet above the pin, where the thin crack in the corner opens up enough to take a .75 camalot. When we tried the route last summer, I saw the first place to step out just above the pin, but kept lie-backing up the corner to the .75 pod. I thought it was about 11- from the pin to the pod. From the pod on, though, the corner seemed virtually impossible. I couldn't make any progress at all, but there is a large chickenhead on the lip of the arching corner (almost a roof at this point) that allows for a wild 5.10 move pulling out of the corner, which would probably feel harder if you don't hang on the rope first. This is about where the dead tree branch crosses the corner on the right side of this photo. I think this is what Steiger is talking about because when you're there it seems like you really have no choice but to use the chickenhead, although I'm sure it's possible for a more talented climber to complete the full corner.

I would love to hear from anyone (the FAs? Steiger? Jbak? Paul Davidson?) who has actually continued up the corner rather than pulling out on the chickenhead, or lower by the pin. Or maybe Ethan is right, and pulling out at the chickenhead is the original pitch, and no one has ever done the whole corner??

I thought the climbing was great and a worthy goal for me will be to go back and climb the pitch clean exiting at the chickenhead.
By jbak
Jul 11, 2016

"Sherman -- set the WayBack Machine for 1986 !".

I did this route with my ultra-bueno, ultra-brave partner Paul Cornia. We were in full trad mode in 1986. Lemmon had no sport climbs that we knew of, and very few leadable 12s. So this was one of the harder quality climbs on the mountain at the time. We noticed the easy-out exit from the dihedral but rejected that option.

I thought the climb was hard. And I seem to remember it was hard to get in pro without pumping out. The ethics of the day frowned on hang-dogging, so we lowered to the no-hands rest after each fall. A pretty strenuous day !

All the sport-climbing I've done since has improved my resting technique and endurance, so I might not find the climb so bad today. I wonder. We planned on going back and climbing it perfectly clean from the ground (not just the no-hands rest) but never got back to it.
By Ethan S.
Jul 12, 2016

Thanks Charles I'll update the info. Cool this has already garnered some attention and stories.
By Dj telle
From: Tucson, Arizona
Aug 29, 2016

This climb might be .11 to where Charles mentioned the .75 cam. However, the crack turns into triple 0 cam and my fingers can't even fit in there... talk about a sandbag. Maybe .12 (bc) if you do it all clean?