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> 8 - Summit Crags
> Rappel Rock
Rotissima Bueno
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad |
FA: | SG,PN 1980 (Steiger's Guide '85) |
Page Views: | 1,107 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Ethan S. on Jul 10, 2016 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
According to Steiger's Guide "the trick is to prevent yourself from interrupting the crux sequence by pulling over the lip to easy ground".
This route can easily be found as a left leaning, lower-angle, slabby corner with two pitons visible from the ground. The climb begins to get more strenuous as the corner becomes cleaner some lie backing and stemming become necessary. The pro seemed good and the pitons were well backed up.
I pulled around a lip at the second piton; this variation is still fun and goes at 10+ before easing up, this felt very natural so I thought this was the line. Apparently another opportunity to exit the corner can be found higher up, and also goes at hard 5.10.
The route's real crux occurs when one remains in the corner.
This route can easily be found as a left leaning, lower-angle, slabby corner with two pitons visible from the ground. The climb begins to get more strenuous as the corner becomes cleaner some lie backing and stemming become necessary. The pro seemed good and the pitons were well backed up.
I pulled around a lip at the second piton; this variation is still fun and goes at 10+ before easing up, this felt very natural so I thought this was the line. Apparently another opportunity to exit the corner can be found higher up, and also goes at hard 5.10.
The route's real crux occurs when one remains in the corner.
Photos
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