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Rotation of hand drill while placing bolts by hand?
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Mar 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
Placed 2 bolts last night with friends and I find myself turning the bit counter-clockwise as I feel it's easier to move. My rationale is turning it clock-wise grabs the edge of the bit and makes it harder to rotate.

I also noticed that my friends would do really small hits and I was doing longer harder hits. What is the best method to get a bolt hole done efficiently for energy and speed?
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
201 points
Mar 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Triple Direct on El Capitan
How long did it take to drill the hole turning it counter clockwise??? I only turn it counter CW when I feel it start to bind.

Most efficient way to drill a hole? turn it clockwise

I have a feeling I'm being trolled.
Kevin Mokracek
From Burbank
Joined Apr 5, 2012
192 points
Mar 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Ne...
Direction doesn't matter until you get a lot of dust in the hole, and you should have cleared it out by then anyway.

Small quick hits are more efficient and break fewer drill bits. Unless you're drilling in certain soft rock where each hit pulverizes a lot of rock.
Greg Barnes
Joined Apr 10, 2006
1,679 points
Mar 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
Kevin,
Not trolling. We were drilling in a some chossy granite (san Gabriel mts above Pasadena) and the holes went rather quick. I found the CCW direction to assist me but maybe my harder hits were getting the hole full of dust too quick as stated by Greg.

The hole I drilled took maybe 10 mins. Easier than hard sandstone found in the sespe wilderness (around black wall/above Ojai CA).
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
201 points
Mar 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Triple Direct on El Capitan
Below Redbox? I've been gong up to the Tunnels quite a bit and have put up a few new climbs there but have been using a power drill. Been saving the hand drill for the new area in the Saline Valley. Kevin Mokracek
From Burbank
Joined Apr 5, 2012
192 points
Mar 16, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
The bolting I have done is for canyoneering, not climbing.

When you reference Saline Valley are you talking about Death Valley?
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
201 points
Mar 16, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Triple Direct on El Capitan
At the southern end of the Saline Valley there is a wall I have been establishing some new routes and finding some old routes. It's about 400' tall by a quarter mile long. I've done a few bolted lines but most have been crack climbs so far. I'm heading out there again tomorrow to climb Friday and then soak at the springs the rest of the weekend. Kevin Mokracek
From Burbank
Joined Apr 5, 2012
192 points
Mar 17, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Triple Direct on El Capitan
Saline Valley Wall

Rock Climbing Photo: Saline Wall
Saline Wall



Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch of three pitches of Machete 5.10
Second pitch of three pitches of Machete 5.10




Rock Climbing Photo: Three pitch Lyons and Tigers and Moes  5.9, follow...
Three pitch Lyons and Tigers and Moes 5.9, follows the obvious dihedrals to the top.
Kevin Mokracek
From Burbank
Joined Apr 5, 2012
192 points
Mar 17, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom of the bottle
Kevin Mokracek wrote:
...... Been saving the hand drill for the new area in the Saline Valley.



Why not use power drill? Better, faster, and better bolts..... IMHO
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
363 points
Mar 17, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Ne...
Guy Keesee wrote:
Why not use power drill? Better, faster, and better bolts..... IMHO

It's illegal, it's a designated Wilderness. Death Valley is almost entirely Wilderness once you get off of any road or jeep road:

wilderness.net/map.cfm?xmin=-1...
Greg Barnes
Joined Apr 10, 2006
1,679 points
Mar 17, 2016
Drilling in rocks, like industrial type, is all counter clockwise. Of course the bits are built for that. You could just do that to increase your drilling cred.

More hits per minute matters more than strength of hits. It matters little by hand though.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
43 points
Mar 17, 2016
Place a closed end wrench on the bottom of the chuck, hold the wrench not the chuck. Better percussion and a hole in granite or basalt very quickly Doug Colwell
From Boise, ID
Joined Oct 9, 2012
5 points
Mar 17, 2016
Sounds like for that rock (in normal clockwise direction) you might want to hit a little softer and turn the bit a little faster. That's the best technique for softer rock to prevent the bit from continually getting stuck (pain in the ass and time consuming).

The opposite is usually true for hard rock: Hit harder and turn slower.

It takes some time but you'll get a feel for the best technique for a given medium. Good on you for taking the time to do it right.
nbrown
From western NC
Joined Nov 6, 2007
5,509 points
Mar 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
Kevin,
Thanks for sharing the photos of the climbing area in Saline. I go there 3-4 times per year. Would you mind pm'ing me location so I could visit it? Or is it documented here on mp?
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
201 points


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