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Rosy Toit 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Steve Wunsch and Hunter Smith 1973
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Pins, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,725
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on May 16, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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near the crux.

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  • Description 

    This spectacular and spooky route starts at the top of the second pitch of Le Toit and ends at the top of Rosy Crucifixion in one 190 foot pitch. From the bolted anchor on Le Toit move up and left into a right facing corner via 5.9+ moves. Follow the corner until you reach two pitons and head hard left, it is runout after the pitons. Join up with Rosy C. at the bolted anchor on the second pitch and follow its third pitch to the Upper Ramp. While the crux is pretty well protected for the leader it is pretty serious before and after. The second should be very solid at the grade because a fall from the crux moves will result in a huge swing.


    Couple of pitons, small to medium cams, stoppers...

    Photos of Rosy Toit Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Michael Gilbert, Rosy Toit.
    Michael Gilbert, Rosy Toit.

    Comments on Rosy Toit Add Comment
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    By Ross Keller
    From: Parker, CO
    Jun 16, 2003
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

    There's good gear before the crux and a big horn that wraps nicely with a double-length sling after the crux. The 2 pins at the crux are junk, but the LA before them and the gear you can place below that pin are good. After the crux section, it's a moderate and run-out rising left traverse with one 9-ish move near the end. Certainly no worse for leader or 2nd than the Le Toit pitches that lead up to it.3 stars for position & moves. 2 stars for rock quality. 1 star for gear. Well worth doing!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 31, 2004
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    I'm going to agree that the rating is not as hard as most established Eldo 10c's. I'll also say that I don't think the gear is that bad, you get plenty of OK gear along the way and there is certainly enough available to make and ascent safe, provided you place it.In hindsight, it is too bad I didn't tie this into the second pitch of Le Toit for a single long pitch. The pitches would combine nicely, and despite the winging route that would have created, I believe that the judicious use of 2' slings would keep the rope drag down. TOo bad I didn't read this suggestion first.
    By michalm
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 5, 2016
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

    While the climbing is fun, exposed, and generally quite easy, the gear past the pins really isn't great. I must disagree with Tony on this matter. There are a couple tiny brass nuts and a ballnut in shallow placements behind solid flakes. Otherwise, everything you could place is behind a hollow flake as far as I can tell. This is a small matter as the climbing really doesn't get harder than 9+/10- for any particular move, and the position is spectacular.

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