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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Dogpatch T 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Kor Direct to Super Slab T 
Lemon Line T 
Lime Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rosy I T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Rosy I 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Drew Spaulding w/Dan Hackett, December,13 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 528
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Dec 19, 2014

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Starting up the 2nd pitch of Rosy I on January 29,...

  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
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  • Location 

    See the photos....


    Rosy I is a new line that I spent a lot of time cleaning so that it climbs safely and so that solid gear placements can be found. It crosses a few routes and shares some of "Vertical Smile" and the ending with the Slimy Spoon's "Fork Finish".

    Pitch 1: start in the corner system just up hill of the Slimy Spoon's start and just downhill of the "Slime Monster" overhang. An interesting(5.8) start with tricky gear leads to a long 5.7 runout. Move left to cross the Slime Monster and climb the steep, blocky face out left(5.8) below Slime Monster's upper roof. Step up on the Slimy Spoon's traversing ledge and bust out to the right on beautiful face edges for a long, runout 5.7+ section to gain the thin crack above. Belay at the base of the classic Slimy Spoon's 2nd pitch.

    Pitch 2: step out right as for "Vertical Smile" but instead power up and left to gain the diagonal system (5.9) that takes some good gear. Now you make wild moves to gain the arete that is formed by the Slimy Spoon's dihedral. Balancy and exciting moves on the arete bring you up to the Vertical Smile crack for 10'. You can choose to finish numerous ways. I like to climb out left to finish with the "Fork Finish" which puts you right at the summit of the "Lower Ramp"!

    This is a perfect position to continue up toward Rosy Crucifixion and its neighbors....


    Eldo rack - thin to 3".

    Photos of Rosy I Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rosy I.
    BETA PHOTO: Rosy I.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start to Rosy I.
    BETA PHOTO: Start to Rosy I.

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