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Since this is the Crooked Road Boulder Ive named this boulder problem after a "well known" country song that one of the more famous locals, Wayne C Henderson, plays on the Crooked Road webpage. I liked the name of the song, so I called it "Rosewood Casket".
Walk to the far left side of the boulder, just past the tallest portion of the boulder. There is a large chunk of rock sticking up near the base if the boulder to the far left and this line sit starts approximately in front of this.
This boulder problem navigates along the very thin crack line that sit-starts to the bottom right of the crack and ascends up and left to top out at a notch.
Look under the steep portion of the boulder, low to the ground, and you will find a very deep pocket. Start with this.
Move up and left to negotiate past very small, thin pockets and upside-down sidepulls. There is a loose chunk in the center of the line. Dont pull this out... Just dont use it if youre scared of it. It didnt seem like it would blow, but I didnt want to use it so I avoided it... Also there is a huge, thin fin at the base. Its not off. Feel free to use it. I dont like eliminates and I graded it with this intended.
Work up and right to gain the notch with a jug up at the top. Top out over the notch.
pads & spot
From: North Carolina
Sep 19, 2011
rating: V4 6B
Word on the street is that part of the loose chunk broke off, making the problem easier. I never saw it before the chunk broke off, but it definitely doesn't feel V5 now - I would say solid V4.
By Aaron Parlier
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Sep 20, 2011
yeah it did, Matt and I popped it out. It was a chunk jammed it and Matt used it as a foot and loosened it up... I call it a 3 now... But Ill go 3/4 until someone else gets on it for more consensus.