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Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)
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Rosetta Phone Home 

Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+

Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+ [details]
FA: Tal Shutkin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 250
Submitted By: Justin Griggs on Oct 23, 2016

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Tal on the FA of the problem on 10/23/16

Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit MORE INFO >>>


With incredible iron rails all throughout this cave, one can imagine this region as a sort of Rosetta Stone for an alien language, giving the problem it's name. Take time to marvel at the beautiful geology of this region while you're climbing.

Start with your hands on the X's marked on the photo and feet on the circles, straddling the feature that juts out from the wall. Thrust up to a fairly large pocket above your head, then continue to ride the network of iron rails, with holds ranging from large pockets to sharp crimps, with a notable absence of good foot holds after the first two moves.

Traverse right along the line to a large pocket about 6 feet from the roof crack, match your hands and begin the crux moves. Drop the feet or figure 4 and twist around, reaching for a crimpy hold, then do a final push to reach the roof crack, ending the problem.

Overall, a very fun problem in an awesome overhung cave.


Located near the far end of right side of Roadside Crag, this route is in the cave with the start of the 5.13a "Chunnel." From the point of view of looking into the cave from the trail, "Rosetta" is off to the left, starting on the fairly obvious piece of rock jutting out from the wall.


2-3 Crash Pads and/or a good spotter

Permit Required 

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This problem is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Photos of Rosetta Phone Home Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rough beta for the problem.  Photo doesn't giv...
BETA PHOTO: Rough beta for the problem. Photo doesn't giv...

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