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Rosemary’s Baby T 

Rosemary’s Baby 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Greg Vernon, Sally Moser
Page Views: 727
Submitted By: Ken H on May 15, 2014

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View across the slab which is a good formation to ...

Description 

We did this climb in 4 pitches. Sorry I don't remember grades or pitch lengths. Kind of guessing from memory so any corrections in the comments are welcome.

Pitch 1 - Head up a widish crack to a nice gear belay. 5.6

Pitch 2 - Continue heading up and as the crack thins move right to a right facing crack. Build a gear hanging belay or extend it down 10 ft to stand on a nice ledge. 5.6

Pitch 3 - Head up to a right facing corner as it thins down to micro nut. Kind of hard to protect. Move left to nice dishes to a two bolt belay at a nice stance. 5.8

Pitch 4 - Slab climb up to a bolt and then continue up the left facing dihedral. 2 bolt belay. 5.7

4th class to the top if you like. We did and then just down climbed back to the anchors.

4 double rope rappels on bolt anchors down the slab face will bring you to the ground.

Location 

Kind of around the right side of the formation.

Look for the overhanging formation of The Crack of Charon 5.12 A1, 4 bolts to overhanging crack. The start is around to the right of that.

Protection 

Gear from fingers to #3 with a set of nuts should do fine.


Photos of Rosemary’s Baby Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Views on the Kern River Valley from the climb.
Views on the Kern River Valley from the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: David B. leading pitch 3.
David B. leading pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: David B. post crux of the climb.  Headed left to t...
David B. post crux of the climb. Headed left to t...
Rock Climbing Photo: David B. coming up Pitch 1.
David B. coming up Pitch 1.

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