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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Prison Sex T 
Pygmy Pony T 
Quick Silver T 
Quicksand T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Reckoning T,S 
Rhombohedral T 
Rope to Ruin T 
Seemingly Innocent T 
Side Wall, The T 
Sister Morphine T,TR 
Sooberb T 
Sooberb Lite T 
Sundial T 
Sword Of Damocles T 
Thin Ice T,TR 
Think Quickly T 
Unbroken Chain T 
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
Warp Drive Overload S 
Who's Holding T 
Wind Tunnel T 
Zeros and Ones T 

Rope to Ruin 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: C. Harrison, M. Brooks, J. Stuberg, 1981
Season: facesW/SW
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 7, 2015

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  • Description 

    Rope to Ruin is a reasonably good climb that would get more traffic were it in a more distinct and popular area. The two pitches might be best done as one with sparse protection and generous use of runners to keep drag to a minimum.

    Start by finding the routes Chick on the Side and Bloke On The Side. Just downhill from these there is a slanting rotten band that diagonals up and north on the West Ridge, creating a 6' wide, yawning runnel.

    This runnel reaches the ground at the base about 30' below a 10' tall dead tree trunk that is somewhat twisted and denuded of any bark or branches: we refer to this as 'The Corkscrew.

    Start on the ground at the runnel, which nearly forms a right-facing corner. Proceed upward to the 'Corkscrew' tree and pass it on either side, according to what you think will minimize future drag, should you be considering running pitches together. A few meters above the tree, a steep bulge hangs overhead, guarding access to a right-facing, hanging dihedral.

    Climb up through the bulge after placing some gear. Watch for loose flakes in the mix of things. The ones that were obvious holds to me turned out to be quite solid, but YMMV, and your belayer is now 40' below, eyeing you with suspicion and checking her helmet while you are doing the steep crux.

    Head on up the corner and onto the very right hand edge of a sloping ledge. Belay somewhere on that, now 90' off the ground, or continue climbing (which I did).

    As you pull to the left perhaps about 10', the climb becomes a series of slabs and overhangs with very large incuts and vertical flakes for holds. The protection is only occasional, but the holds would be difficult to fall off of.

    Pull through these stepded slabs and up over the apex of a final slab. Climb down the back side of it onto a high point on a gravelly ledge behind there. I found a belay there built of a stopper and a few small-hands-sized cams.

    Seat the rope up and over on the least sharp area, and make sure you have minimal frition, unless you have a... (wait for it) Rope to Ruin.

    From the top of this you can see the top of Handcracker Direct to the left (North), but I recommend finding 'Sword Of Damocles' for a finish consistent in obscurity and grade.


    This is just a few meters downhill from Chick on the Side.


    A standard rack with lots of 2' slings and maybe a 3' sling or two. If linking pitches, then bring a set of nuts plus cams small to 3" with some doubles.

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