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Helen's Dome
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A Nice Top Rope TR 
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 
Borderline Boulevard  T 
Brave Cowboy T 
Buffalo Soldier T,S 
Buffalo Tears T 
Electric Koolaid Acid Test  T 
Face Value T 
Fool's Gold T,S 
Fractured Fairytales S 
Gettin' the Groove S 
On the Bus T 
Pebble Beach T,TR 
Roototop S 
Spree T,S 
Sticks 'n' Stones T 
Unknown on South Face T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: John Peterson on Oct 25, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Leading pitch 2.


On the far right of Helen's Dome is a nice, 4 pitch, bolted route up the slabs.

P1. Go up a round arete to a tree, 100', 5.7.

P2. Continue up a short, steep face (probably 5.9 but optional - you can go right up an easy crack and step back left), then follow bolts to a semi-hanging belay, 100', 5.9 (or 5.8).

P3. Climb more slab to a hanging belay where the angle eases, 100', 5.7.

P4. Finish up the East slab to the top, 140', 5.5.

It is not as nicely consistent as FFT, but it is a fun outing.

I use this route to descend FFT - you need 2 ropes. You can rap P2 and P3 at just under 200'.

The route continues to the top of Sheepshead - this only covers the part on Helen's.


On the far right side of the slabs of Fractured Fairy Tales, this line of bolts on P1 is obvious.


10 or 11 draws.

Photos of Roototop Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the route.
The start of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin McCall at the third belay.
Kevin McCall at the third belay.

Comments on Roototop Add Comment
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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 25, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Hi John,
Roototop goes all the way to -- well -- the top of the Sheeprock formation. After the initial 4 pitches that you mention, the route continues up Acid Rock by climbing a bolted pitch just to the right of the Divine Ms. M.:

see here:

You then climb the second pitch of Divine Ms. M (i.e. the black streak runnel). This pitch puts you at a big ledge (kind of a horizontal gully) where you then climb two more fully bolted pitches straight up to the summit of Acid Rock.

Next you walk over to the base of the Velcro Wall on Sheeprock and climb two pitches to the summit proper of Sheeprock:

see here:

Anyway, I also think that 5.6 is maybe a little sandbaggy for the first pitch (which I think is certainly as hard or harder than the third pitch that you call 5.7), and I think that the second pitch is probably 5.9 right off the bat but then eases considerably. Taken altogether, I would give this climb maybe 9+/10a because of the third pitch on Acid Rock. Just my two cents. Cheers.
By John Peterson
Oct 25, 2016

Thanks - I updated the ratings a bit. We combined P2 and P3, and my partner ran out of rope, so I had to skip the first few hard moves on P2 and wasn't sure whether they were 5.9.

Although we wanted to tag the top of Sheeprock, we bailed at the 9+/10a on Acid due to lack of time/skill.

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