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Root Canal 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Skyler Penrod, Paul Bucher
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 5,839
Submitted By: paul bucher on May 27, 2010

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Right before I turned around. A photogenic route i...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Obvious chimney on Molar Tower left of the main Dihedral Routes. Great route with classic photo opportunities. Face opposite bolts and sub summit is still a little crumbly, but will clean up with future ascents. Can be done in one pitch, but recommend two pitches belaying from stance on sub summit. Crux move is a lunge from sub summit to the main summit. 5.8 crux can go as an A0 move or escape from sub summit anchor if needed. Please leave all fixed hardware. This is a great route for anyone wanting to start learning chimney technique and is well protected.


Obvious Chimney. Route is facing the river. Anchor on top.


5 Bolts, 2 Slung Huecos
7 Quick Draws

Photos of Root Canal Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: James Ellis drills Root Canal
James Ellis drills Root Canal
Rock Climbing Photo: Veiw from road
Veiw from road
Rock Climbing Photo: Veiw from top at sunset
Veiw from top at sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor shown and slung hueco on "Root Canal&q...
Anchor shown and slung hueco on "Root Canal&q...
Rock Climbing Photo: The name plate for "Root Canal", still i...
The name plate for "Root Canal", still i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the First Ascent
Working the First Ascent
Rock Climbing Photo: Hammering
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: First Ascent of Root Canal
BETA PHOTO: First Ascent of Root Canal

Comments on Root Canal Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2017
By Jeff Bryan
From: Cortez, co
Nov 14, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Hey guys great route! climbed it today. It was a challenge for lacy 17. It was her 6th time climbing. She made it. thanks for putting this classic mod up. Its a gem!
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Dec 15, 2010

Pretty fun route, nice work guys.
By Skylar Smith
Apr 13, 2012

This was probably the funnest 5.8 I've ever done. On top of this short tower is a box with a buddha next to it.
By Taylor S.
May 17, 2012

Super fun, cruiser chimney. Perfect for those new to chimneys and towers, or those just looking for some fun. Added to a short drive from town with a speedy approach and beautiful views means there are no excuses to not climb Root Canal. Good work, guys!
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 22, 2012

I firmly believe that safely bolting sick moderates like this is a huge service to the climbing community. Good on ya, and nice find! This would be the ideal first lead - short, fully bolted, ridiculously secure clips, and clean falls.

This would be nicely shaded and great on a hot day, but probably uncomfortably chilly in <50º weather.
By JohnEdsonStagg
From: Evergreen, CO
Feb 18, 2013

Does anyone know if the anchors have been replaced at the top of the Root canal. Lat time I climbed it, there were 2 slings and no chains.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Feb 19, 2013

it's on our to do list. we hope to up grade as soon as it gets warmer. as is, the anchors are still bomber. if you like molar, may i suggest terma or spear of destiny. both have super bomb new chain anchors. peace to all.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Feb 26, 2013

new anchors, DONE!!!! as of 2/25/13. probably now has the best anchors in the desert, maybe the planet and possibly the universe. a brontosaurus could rap off of these things.
By JohnEdsonStagg
From: Evergreen, CO
Oct 9, 2013


Thanks for the anchor replacement. We're going back out for the Thanksgiving Holiday and this is on our Tick list. I love this route!
By Mikal Davis
May 25, 2016

Climbed it 5/6/16. Awesome lead and interesting moves. The new anchors could withstand a nuclear explosion. Aka bomber. Nice break from the slab on Potash Rd. Agree its 5.8+, but dont agree with doing it in 2 pitches. I dont see why you would waste the time, a 60m rope easily takes care of the job and the somewhat sketchy jump to the summit is protected by a sling and has a nice piece of webbing to hold onto for added security.
By Aaron Glasenapp
From: Denver, CO
Apr 17, 2017

The first bolt is extremely loose. It appears to have stripped the hole in the rock a significant amount, and I easily pulled it out about 3/4 of an inch. I'm pretty sure a few good yanks would pull it out of the rock entirely.

That being said, it actually not that scary get up to the second bolt a few feet higher. I pushed the first bolt back in to the wall and clipped it anyway. Would definitely not want to fall on it though.
Rock Climbing Photo: First bolt on Root Canal
First bolt on Root Canal
By David
Aug 13, 2017

The first bolt is now a glue-in - solid! Did it in one pitch, and I found a cordelette useful to extend the anchor over the lip for toproping.

This is a picturesque, fun chimney climb that's right off the road and not to be missed if you're driving down River road.

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