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Green Valley Gap
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
12 Gauge Conversion TR 
2 Weeks Notice S 
Australian Monk T 
Bare Necessities S 
Beggars and Choosers S 
Benefit of the Doubt S 
Bitter Recriminations S 
Brazilian Ninjas T,TR 
Butterflies Arete TR 
Chinese Gauncho T 
Cool Katz S 
Damned If You Do TR 
Damned If You Don't TR 
Dueling Grandmas S 
Factional Infighting TR 
Fat Black Chuck S 
Flue Shot S 
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 
Hairy Virgin TR 
Hue and Cry S 
I'm hungry, I've got to poop! S 
Inquisition, The S 
Jezabel T 
Knee Replacement S 
Lamenites S 
Lincoln's Lament T 
Luck of the Irish S 
Moral Dilemma S,TR 
Nemesis S 
Nephites S 
Not Arrgh S 
Pain in the Cass! S 
Parking Slot TR 
Perky's Playground S 
Presidential Centerfold T 
Presidential Warfare T 
Puppet Strings S 
Quickening, The S 
Redneck Wonderland S 
Rock!! n' Roll T 
Roosterhead Ridge TR 
Sand Stoner Reverse S 
Short and Dorky S 
Shotgun Baptism S 
Skin Graft S 
Stick to your Guns S 
Tape Up 
Unknown T,TR 
Washingtons' Wig T 
Wave, The S,TR 
West Wave TR 
Where Egos Dare S 

Roosterhead Ridge 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: kenr on Feb 17, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: "parking slab" routes A - Butterflies Ar...


Lots of thoughtful interesting moves in the first twenty feet, then fun easy moves above.

Up directly through the nose above the "practice" anchor, staying left of the "Australian Monk" cracks. Reach a platform, then finish over the roosterhead.

As of 2016 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).


A foot or two left (west) of the low "practice" anchor (one piton + one old bolt + one newer bolt) on left side of slab with the easier routes ("Chinese Guancho" / "Texas Jug" and "Brazilian Ninja") which is just west from the access scramble down from the north-side parking.

see Sector Topo photo
and Left side Topo photo


Top-Roping from the bolt anchor for the climb to the right of this, supplemented with Trad directional (perhaps sling around horn?)

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

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