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Roofy Business 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Matt Wilson on Jun 14, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The route was cleaned today and is now ready for m...

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review


From the CRAG-VT guide: Begin at right-facing blocky jugs directly below diagonal
crack ~ 15’ off the deck. To right of Beginner’s Slab. Climb jugs to diagonal crack
leading to roof. Make awkward mantle under roof, being careful to protect the roof
moves via mini dihedral crack off left-facing corner of roof. Pull cool moves through roof
and follow diagonal incipient crack left, then face moves and horizontal cracks to twobolt
anchors. PG 13 protection: standard rack with small pieces.

The crux will be a grade higher for the shorter climbers (5'5" and shorter), I think, as they will need to be a bit dynamic to reach the jugs to pull the roof.


Center of the wall. See the 8 foot high, 20 foot long hole in the middle of the cliff face? Climb a fairly straight line up through the middle of that.


Standard rack with small pieces.

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By Nick H.
Jun 14, 2012

As a shorter climber, I had a hard time reaching the jug to get over the roof, so I moved over and climbed up the right side instead.

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