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Roofus Variation 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Klement and Habovstak 1993
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: Landon McBrayer on Aug 31, 2014

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Description 

This route shares the first bolt with Roofus, then splits off left up the finger crack below Roofus's second bolt. Follow the short finger crack to a final bolt and some tricky finishing moves. Clipping the chains is the crux.

Location 

Same start as Roofus; 15 feet right of The Dogcatcher.

Protection 

Draws for the two bolts and the chains. Two or so finger-sized cams for the crack between bolts. FYI - it's possible to clip the second bolt of Roofus with a long sling if it makes you feel better.


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By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 31, 2014

A better route than Roofus, IMO. Really cool second half of the climb, if you have a few fingery cams.