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Hawk-Eagle Ridge
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Roof's Way 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Kor, Link, 1968
Season: S facing so not high summer
Page Views: 189
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Mar 26, 2012

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  • Description 

    Roof's Way is a worthwhile route near the top of Hawk Eagle Ridge. It wanders quite a bit but has fun climbing and thought provoking protection (or not) with great exposure at the top. Roof's Way begins just around a blunt corner maybe 50' left of Stay Hungry, ascend the trail to where it stops at a tree and to continue up you have to scramble slabs. Head up the slabs for ~75' to a slightly precarious (steep slab) belay area below a roof system. Roofs way starts here and climbs up through no less than 5 roofs or overhanging bulges in two short pitches or since you walk off the top, no reason not to link them togheter, but you'll want to use well placed runners to avoid rope drag. According to SL, this was Layton Kor's last recorded FA in Eldo. And for more historical fun, the J. Lowe-C. Fowler variation (.10R) climbs straight up the left-facing corner at the start then moves right to merge.

    Look for a body length, left-facing corner 10' off the ground that marks the start. Climb over a bulge to get onto the face then move right below the left-facing corner (.9R), looking for gear but not finding any you'll be pleased to find an original Kor KB in the roof as you move right to the break through this next roof. Above, wander back left though another roof to a steep slab above, in the crack near the tree is the orignal belay. From the tree climb moderate, very nice, unprotected face (5.6) up and left heading toward the obvious crack system on the right side of the final roof. Climb out this final roof (.10) using a flake and magic chicken head on the left with wonderful exposure and exciting movement.


    Near the top of Hawk Eagle Ridge, hike the trail to its end at a tree below Stay Hungry and scramble ~75' up the slabs to the break in the roofs below a left-facing corner.


    S.E.R. should suffice. Jalepeño Spicy.

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