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Roofer Madness and Fairweather Walls
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Roofer Madness T 

Roofer Madness 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Ficker, Jim Zahn, Mike Long 1981 per Phx Rock 2 guidebook
Season: Not summer
Page Views: 316
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Feb 18, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The base of Roofer Madness

Description 

Start on a crumbly and steep crack which is tough for the grade I think. Interesting move to get established, then I got in some small cams and nuts and progressed with some trouble. Above another 20 feet is a 6-7 foot hand crack through an A-frame roof. The hand crack continues another 12 feet or so to a ledge. The roof is really fun jamming and stemming, and probably three stars in itself. But given the limited variety at the crag and the lower quality start, I couldn't give this more than a single star total. Worth doing though.

Location 

Locate a large chimney arching right to left, almost horizontal. The climb is at the far left where the chimney ends. Scramble off ledge climbers left to descend.

Protection 

Small cams and nuts for start. The roof eats hand size gear.


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