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Duncan's Ridge
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Africa's West Coast T 
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Bird Shit Avenue T,TR 
Broken Crack T,TR 
Cave Route T,TR 
Cheeseburger in Paradise TR 
Conglomerate Face TR 
Corner Climb T,TR 
Crackmard T 
Dihedral Route T,TR 
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Lichen Roof TR 
Monster Block Full SDS 
Northern Unnamed T,TR 
Nose, The T 
Oranges S,TR 
Out of the Black S 
Purdy Dirty TR 
Roof Route T,TR 
South Corner T,TR 
South OW aka Front Crack T 
Unnamed Corner T,TR 
Unnamed Overhang TR 
Unnamed Top Rope Section T,TR 
Wide Side, The T,TR 
Wishbone Crack T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Roof Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,621
Submitted By: Joe McManus on Jul 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Pullin' the Nose (Roof Route) at Duncan's.


Go up and over the major roof at Duncan's Ridge. The route is dead center in the middle of the Ridge between the 5.7 Corner and the 5.9 Dihedral route.


Bring some long slings for the TR anchors and maybe a tri cam or two.

Eds. Per Jarrod Keller: this route now has a bolted anchor.

Per Ryan Nelson: this has been retrobolted with 6 bolts.

Per MikeDee Dickinson: one of the anchor bolts is loose. Back it up!

Photos of Roof Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the roof - 1980.
Above the roof - 1980.
Rock Climbing Photo: Si climbin' the dihedral crack . . roof to the lef...
Si climbin' the dihedral crack . . roof to the lef...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof.
Pulling the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian hanging out on Roof Route.
Brian hanging out on Roof Route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the roof.
Starting the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob, a little off-route, around 1980.
Rob, a little off-route, around 1980.
Rock Climbing Photo: Roofin'.
Rock Climbing Photo: Solid hand holds with a heel hook and you're there...
Solid hand holds with a heel hook and you're there...

Comments on Roof Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 10, 2017
By Stewart Berry
Sep 6, 2003

This is a pretty fun roof. There are some great holds on it, some are just a little hard to find. The bolts on this route are no longer there. Bring a good bit of webbing and you can use the anchors for the 5.7 ( the route to the left) to top rope it.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 1, 2004

Looks like the girl in the picture is in for a gnarly fall! Hope she made it.
By Tortilla
From: Fakeville, USA
Feb 3, 2005

There is a picture of a girl leading this route... this is not a very good route to lead unless you are confident of the moves. If you are confident of them, then rock on bro!!
By Umph!
Mar 6, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

5.10. . . what?
I'd give this 10c and a Very serious R.
Maybe a hold or two or three or four broke or something.
Would absolutely rec. TR before a lead.
Cool little climb.
For the area, the diverse climbing and the quality, I give 'er 3 stars. . . some may argue.
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a great TR. The anchor at the top takes a couple of nuts and a #1 Camalot.
By Rob C
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A good roof problem 40 feet off the ground. The roof is not easily protected on lead, if at all. The beta photo of the gal shows where the last piece can go until you're standing above. It would be a nasty deck fall. Fun on TR. A four piece nut anchor was bomber.
By Robert Curry
From: Evans, Co
May 19, 2009

I checked out the roof and cracks opposing both sides .. roof was very scary and I took a lil drop when I tried. I'll be back soon.
By Erik Kowalczyk
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 11, 2015

Under the roof, there is something that resembles a bolt but looks like a glue-in paper clip. I avoided clipping this but soon realized it lead to a long run out with an R rated fall. I don't know if I should clip this. Has anyone climbed this route since the bolts were added?
By Dan1124
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 13, 2015

Erik - that's a recently added glue-in bolt. I've taken hangs on it and seen a number of people fall on it, so it's good to clip.
By Sam Sala
From: Denver, CO
Jun 19, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Felt brutal for a 10. Maybe 10b/c??? Rapped in to look at it and decided to take a lap on TR before a lead try. Glad I did, and will have to work this one a bit more before I get on lead. A fall pulling over the roof would not be great even with the new bolts. The bulge just below the roof is weird as well...don't underestimate it.
By Davis Dailey
Jul 11, 2015

The glue-in on the roof is just what the doctor ordered! Clip from a nice stance. Reach up find the good holds. Couple of high feet to pull the roof to an awkward bulge. I found little opportunity for good pro directly above the roof but was able to plug a hand sized cam a little higher. Top roping first definitely not a bad idea, but this is an awful toprope set up! Lots of drag. I prefer to rap off this rather than get lowered by my belayer. Very fun climb with great pro where you need it.
By Jack Laven
Sep 19, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

When I was TR'ing this a couple weeks ago, I didn't see any bolts except the glue-in. I wasn't looking for the bolts, but don't be surprised if they aren't there.
Just a heads up.
By MikeDee Dickinson
Mar 23, 2016

One of the two permanent anchor bolts at the top of the roof route is quite loose. The nut is secure, but the bolt itself is pretty jiggly. Backed it up with a long sling and locking biner from a nearby rock yesterday. A nut and runner set in a nearby crack would do the same job. Check yourself before you deck yoourself.
By Brendan Armesy
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 27, 2016

I was up there Monday (9/26/16), and the anchor bolts at the top were both tight.
By Andrew Vinzant
Mar 12, 2017

When I see a straight 10 trad route, I assume it's a b/c.

5.10a = 10-
5.10b/c = 10
5.10d = 10+

Not sure of the confusion minus the safety rating.
By Dan Brogan
From: Fort Collins
May 10, 2017

Left two Trango quickdraws hanging on the chains back on March 24th. The biners are dark silver, the non-wired gates are red (straight) and orange (curved), and the dogbones are black. If you grabbed them, I'd really appreciate getting them back! Thanks!

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