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Roof Pendant 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Garhart and Walters, November 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Nov 8, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The route.

Description 

This is a great, bouldery route that houses 4 roofs. Face climb and layback a left-facing corner up to a good undercling crack that takes hand-sized gear. Stem up and clip a bolt before making some interesting body tension moves to gain another undercling (crux). Layback the undercling and move right to gain a sloping arete and a decent rest. Pull up into the fat fingers roof (#0.5 Camalot), and square up for the next fingers roof (#0.4 Camalot). Above the fingers roof you are rewarded with some big jugs and a mellow headwall to the chains.

Location 

See the beta photo on the main page.

Protection 

In order: gold Camalot, quickdraw, 0.5 cam, 0.4 cam, and optional hand-sized piece above. Slings.


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By Alex Garhart
Jun 9, 2013

I'm not sure about the grade on this one, 11+/12- is a ballpark. Rough, techy crux sequence. A stick-clip is handy for the start.
By Alex Garhart
Jul 9, 2013

I broke a hold on this above the bolt, making a difficult sequence much harder. I'm considering dynamiting this part of the wall just to be done with this thing....

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