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Roof By-Pass 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,614
Submitted By: Barrett Cooper on Apr 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Roof Bypass. At the top you can see ...

Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st MORE INFO >>>


Start to the right of Anorexic Lycra Dog which is a bolted route up to anchors under the obvious roof on the left end of the crag. The first pitch follows the obvious crack on the right side of the roof using good hand jams and solid footing. Belay from either directly beside the roof lip using a small horn (8 feet to the right of Lycra Dog's belay anchors) and gear or push up further to a better belay ledge about 15 feet above the right side of the roof. From there, follow the obvious crack to the summit and belay from the boulders on top. Walk off to the climber's right down very low angle slab.


Nuts and large hexes work for most of the route but you can place cams from 0 to 4 without any problem if you want to bring them along.

Photos of Roof By-Pass Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda on the narrow belay ledge at the top of pit...
Brenda on the narrow belay ledge at the top of pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan A. leading Roof Bypass.
Ryan A. leading Roof Bypass.
Rock Climbing Photo: Roof By-Pass follows the crack that's under the pr...
BETA PHOTO: Roof By-Pass follows the crack that's under the pr...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 1, 2012
By Amy Edwards
Aug 4, 2003

Great route! Lots of good moves. I found myself steming a majority of the climb. I did this in 1 pitch (it was a long one). The 11-mile guide book says this is a 5.6, I would have to agree with, I think it's a sustained 5.7.
By Lance Bischoff
Sep 5, 2003

I totally agree with Amy. Did this route today as a second for a new lead climber - he was stressed - it is NOT a 5.6 or I'll take up bowling! Also agree it is quite sustained solid 5.7, the 5.6 moves are perhaps fewer than the 7's. Protection is ok, some placements are harder due to the shade/lichen/moss in the main crack, but all in all reasonable. I think a few of the Eleven Mile routes were rated by people who forgot what it felt like to be a beginner/moderate new leader. This is definitely a 7. And a "tough" 7 if there is such a thing. Great route description on this site!
By Larry Shaw
Jun 17, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very fun route and worth doing. Both pitches are easily combined into one and a 60m rope will reach the top. Thought there was one 10ft. section of 5.7 near the roof bypass section.
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

For a 5.7 jam crack this is as good as it gets. Steep with consistent jams. I brought an extra #2 Camalot and put it to good use.
By Mike Ben
From: silverthorne/denver
May 21, 2006

This is a fun sustained climb. I can see how a new leader could struggle a little. Had to dig out a little moss to make a placement. I love the hand jams on this climb and the hex placements. The book I have said this is a 5.7 but This felt a little more stout than Lichen or Leave It (5.8). Maybe cause it's more sustained. Highly recommended.
By summitklimber
From: Dillon, CO
Jul 21, 2008

You guys that want to rerate these climbs should read the book Climb - the history of climbing in Colorado. These climbs were established in a day when climbing grade 5.9 was as hard as it got. When looking at guide books for grades also look at what year the climb was established and by who. 5.7 Layton Korr routes can be incredible and very hard.
By Joshua Balke
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 10, 2008

Did this route thinking it was Stone Age for some reason. Have to agree with the 5.6 rating. I was a bit thrown off at first until I got into the meat of the climb. It's all there though this may not be a great first trad lead.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 30, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this route today with my wife. One of the better moderate "crack" climbs I've done with lots of opportunity for left hand jams, and a few good face moves. Good protection with cams in the crack -- used everything from a #0.4 to a #3 BD Camalot. At the top of pitch 1 we belayed from a small (12 inch wide) ledge on the right side of the roof with two solid bolts that normally serve as anchors for the sport face climb just right of Roof Bypass. Above this ledge there is about 15 more feet of interesting crack climbing, then the rest of the 2nd pitch is mostly an easy mix of face moves and ledges. You could probably combine both pitches with a 60m rope, but would not be able to talk to/hear your second below. Overall this was a terrific moderate climb that should not be missed!
By Nick Orticelle
From: Denver, Co
Jul 27, 2009

Led this one the other day in one pitch. I've never climbed such a sustained route...there were 2 let ups where I got a nice sip of water in though, but I've never been so beat after a 5.7. I really enjoyed it.
By Simon
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 29, 2011

Joshua, I made that mistake too (thinking it was Stone Age). I was thinking the whole time this is a very stiff 5.5 but was also aware of the history of the area. I agree it's a 5.7 though. The pro is pretty good and the climbing is great, so I just shrugged it off and enjoyed it.

As it was the first time we climbed this, we belayed above the neighboring bolt anchor on a trad anchor in a nice alcove before topping out. There are options to set up a belay just below (trad or bolt) or above the alcove. P2 is a one move wonder (to the upper anchor option) then 5.4/5 to the top. If I was to climb it again, I might choose to lower off the bolts near the end of P1 and use the saved time on another route.
By Climbnh
From: Co Springs, CO
Oct 1, 2012

I removed the rock spire that was waiting to skewer someone and a coffin-sized block from base of the route.

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