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Midsummer's Night Dream T 
Ronin T 


YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
Season: Spring, Late Summer, Fall
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on Aug 10, 2012

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Ronin climbs this corner below the notch then wind...


Start from a natural anchor on the good ledge 20' above the ground.

P1. Bluecollar climbing goes progressively upward through the sizes. Fight your way up the left-facing corner. This is a good, fun pitch on good stone, 5.10; 110' +/-.

P2. Stem through the gap till it is possible to face climb up the slab on excellent stone with excellent protection. Once on the big ledge, an uber junky 8' awaits to finalize this adventure, 5.11 C0; 50' +/-.

Caviat: The summit of this tower is a festering pile, and the rap is the bad part. The anchor is good, however descend at your own peril, wear a helmit, and use your brain when returning back down to the notch, there's enough loose block up there to ruin your day.


Ronin climbs the skier's right of this tower. You will need a spare rope to create an anchor off the trees to descend down into to the notch - (from the lip, it is a 130'+/- rappel). From there, it's a long (single 70m) rappel off good anchors to a ledge at the base of the dihedral. Bring some gear to anchor yourself, pull your rope, and have fun. DO NOT descend all the way to the ground or you will seriously reduce the quality of this adventure. This is a great climb for avoiding the sun and is in the shade till 2:00 pm in early/mid-August.


Doubles from a #1 Metolius to a #5 Camalot. If climbing Midsummer's out to the rim, you will also need doubles from 00 & triples from a 1 Metolius to red Camalot. You will need three ropes, one to make a rappel anchor at the rim, one to descend and jug, and one to climb on. It might be possible to make it to the notch with a single 70, but we didn't try it, and it would be pretty close.

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