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JARNI ZVRAT-KY 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jiri Vyhlidko, Adela Jandikova April 2009
Season: wen ever
Page Views: 884
Submitted By: Devin Fin on Mar 7, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Thad moving throw the last crux

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Boulder move off the ground in to a roof fist slot that tapers down to tight fingers. Lock that finger down, reach left to a "jug" and pull yourself on to a great ledge. From there its good fingers for a move or two, stem left foot and grab some less then great rock out left which gets you to somewhat of a rest/good stem. Work up some crap rock in to a crisp and i mean crisp #2 camalots for 60 feet to a rest under the last crux! 00 C3's and some wicked stemming gets you over the roof now tips to the top...

Location 

Left of Binou's Crack 5.9 I mean left of Half Man/Half Alligator Shark 5.13 R. Its right next to a sweet tree. No Plaque.

Protection 

(5) blue tcus (3) 1 inch (5) #1 camalot's (1) #2 camalot (3) .4 camalot (1) #4 camalot (1)#3 camalot (2) .75 camalot


Photos of JARNI ZVRAT-KY Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: rapping down on a nice March day..
rapping down on a nice March day..

Comments on JARNI ZVRAT-KY Add Comment
Show which comments
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Mar 8, 2013

could some one else get on this rout so we could get a solid conformation on the grade Slim n my self think 10 hard? so i posted it at 11-? with the creek getting nice i hope it see's some more traffic.. thanks DF
By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Apr 26, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Good one! Even with the slight choss, I thought this one of the better routes in the area.

took 1-#1C3, 1-#2C3, 2-#.5 C4 Camalot, 2-#1, 2-#2 ,1-#3.

Thanks for posting this up.
By Jiri Vyhlidko
Sep 24, 2013

Hi Devin,
I am from Czech rep. and I did this rout with my girl ADELA JANDIKOVA. . . in April 2009 and official name is JARNI ZVRAT-KY 11+. . . . . . I can send to you some pic.....

thanks Jiri Vyhlidko
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Sep 25, 2013

sweet thanks for the info .. cheers for finding such a gem... im going to put a good bolt at the anchor with a chain ... as the pitons are bomber but a bitch cuz every one who has a lil cord try,s to "fix" the anchor up. DF

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