REI Community
The Spider's Web
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bird's Nest T 
Captain Hooks T 
Dacker Cracker T,TR 
Drop, Fly, or Die T 
Esthesia T 
Eternity T 
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 
It's Only Entertainment T 
Jelly Arms T,TR 
Key, The T 
Lycanthropia T 
Monkey See, Monkey Do T 
Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 
On The Loose T 
Peace In Our Climbs T 
Pumpernickel T 
Romano's Route T 
Slim Pickins T 
Wheelin N' Dealin T 
White Knight T 
Yvonne T 
Zabba T 

Romano's Route 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rich Romano late 70s
Page Views: 3,127
Submitted By: Steve Brady on Oct 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The whole route


(P1) A full value pitch! A series of burly moves up a steep, stout, finger crack (11c) gains a steep ramp† that leads to a sloping rest ledge (ca. 40’). Continue up the stellar hand crack (10+) to an alcove (ca. 40’). Traverse right across a ledge to the anchor shared by On the Loose/White Knight (60 m single rope rappel). Alternatively, continue up another 40’ of cracks to a bolt anchor. [I have not done this upper pitch/link-up, so any info would be useful.]

†Tip: A directional placed to the right from off the ramp is worthwhile for keeping the rope out of the crack below, which has, on occasion, proven to have an appetite for nylon (ask me how I know!).


Right end of the cliff, just left of White Knight.


Nuts; Double rack of cams to #2 Camalot. More gear if you want to fire the upper pitch as a link-up, which would be sweet. From the common anchor shared by White Knight and On the Loose, you can make a single rope rappel with a 60. The route protects well. The low crux tends to eat up gear to keep you out of ground-fall on tough terrain.

Photos of Romano's Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the route
BETA PHOTO: The start of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Brady nearing the top of the first pitch of ...
Steve Brady nearing the top of the first pitch of ...

Comments on Romano's Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By afh
From: Portland, OR
Apr 6, 2011

I thought the upper 5.10 crack was similar in style and grade to 'On the Loose'. That is to say: Friggin' sweet.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Led this thing today but it really beat me up pretty bad - probably whipped on it a good six or seven times. The lower section is spicy with thin gear that is kind of hard to place and the upper section is a straight up pump-fest. Also I find the upper section to be 11a in its own right as opposed to 5.10 - felt harder than the upper section of "Drop, Fly or Die"...

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About