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Romanian Rib - Left Side 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Larry DeAngelo, Karsten Duncan, Raluca Duncan - Oct 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,229
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 13, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The Romanian Wave

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is a nice route that is generally easy climbing and short cruxes. It's only drawback is crispy holds in a few places. It can be most easily identified by a noticeable dark cresting-wave-like roof on the 3rd pitch. The first 4 pitches are long, clean, and fun. Above the route weaves through a series of aretes and buttresses.

Pitch 1: Climb up the face finding the path of least resistance. 195ft

Pitch 2: Continue up and left up to a roof in a left facing corner. Pull the roof and belay.

Pitch 3: Continue up the crack below the wave-like roof. Traverse right on brown varnished rock to a crack at the right side of the roof. Continue up through the roof and belay in the crack above.

Pitch 4-7: Continue up the crack and face to a tree. From the tree move up and left around a buttress to a crack. Continue up this crack to the top in about 2 more pitches.


This route lies just to the left of the Hotflash gully on a buttress which is bordered on the left by a bushy gully.

Descent: Use the usual First Creek Slabs descent.


Standard rack to 4"

There are no bolts on this route. Lets keep it that way.

Photos of Romanian Rib - Left Side Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wendy coming up the face above the pine tree belay...
Wendy coming up the face above the pine tree belay...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wendy coming up the final arete face.
Wendy coming up the final arete face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the RIB!!!!
Climbing the RIB!!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Gigi pulls the roof. Romanian Rib, pitch 3.
Gigi pulls the roof. Romanian Rib, pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitches 1-3.  The wave-like feature on pitch 3 can...
BETA PHOTO: Pitches 1-3. The wave-like feature on pitch 3 can...

Comments on Romanian Rib - Left Side Add Comment
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By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Mar 27, 2008

A fun route with beautiful views! The first long pitch is super duper great for new trad leaders, or a fun solo for more experienced climbers.

I thought that most of the rock on this route was great; not one hold broke off on me, which says a lot on the overall quality (for a newer Red Rock route, anyway).

We simul-climbed a good portion of this route, as it's fun, mellow climbing.
It would be a super fast way to get to the climbs on the upper walls (First Creek Slabs Ledge) if you are okay with simul-climbing, and decent at route-finding.

Thanks for putting this one up, Larry DeAngelo, and Raluca, and Karsten Duncan; It made my day!
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 27, 2008

Multumesc mult. A fost o zi minunata pt. catarat pe munte!
By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 20, 2009

I was not impressed by this route. Many better options on the Slabs to either side.... The first three pitches were quite good, but the rock quality, protection, line, and rock all deteriorated dramatically on the next few pitches, detracting from the fun.
By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 25, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

A very long, fun, easy route. Mostly solid rock with the occasional pause for careful climbing in areas where the rock is yet to be cleaned. Protection is few and far in between in many places but the climbing is so casual that it's not really an issue. 2 and a half stars.
By Will Carney
From: Tallulah Falls, GA
Oct 21, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Fun day out in a sparsely visited canyon.
By David Carrier
From: White Salmon, WA
Mar 6, 2017
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Great route for soloing or beginners. Lots of big holds and a perfect hand crack for placing pro most of the way. There's a couple of runout pitches near the top, so beginners should lead the lower pitches.

I had difficulty finding the base of the climb. When you hike in, the trail crosses roughly 100' of very red rock. Big Sky, Lady Luck, and Romanian Rib are above this red slab, and there is a climber's trail heading up to the climbs.

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