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2. The Bird's Nest
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Old Dad Line T,S 
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Romancing The Stone 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Drew Spaulding, Mariah Freesen-2008, FFA-Zach Holtzman-2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 72
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on May 27, 2010

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Description 

Start up behind the long-needled pine on the right side of the Bird's Nest. Climb steep cracks (2-3 gear placements) up to the bolted crux through the large, dramatic roof (5.11b). Continue past 11 more bolts (5.10) to the 2-bolt chained anchor. This is the Gem up on the Bird's Nest! Clean, compact, glacially polished granite!

Protection 

Except for the 2-3 placements to start this pitch, bolts protect the remaining 95'. A 70m rope (or 2 ropes) and 14 quickdraws are needed! 2-bolt chained anchor for descent.


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By nate post
From: Silverthorne
Jun 21, 2015

Great job on this route, wonderfully clean, solid rock. I pulled the move over the roof before I could clip that third bolt, so I ended up just skipping it. I'm not sure if there is a way to clip it before pulling the roof or not, but I couldn't seem to reach it. For me, this doesn't take away from the climb, but a fall here with out clipping that third bolt could hurt. Maybe I missed/ overlooked something. Either way I enjoyed the route, and I like committing moves, so thanks for equipping this route.
By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2015

Thanks, Nate! I think I make the clip from the razor hold over the lip.... Sharp, crimpy, powerful and balancy! Wild roof for sure with a bit of a run out above.... You definitely want to clip that 3rd bolt before busting past it!!! Nice job! Must've been scary!

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