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Roman Holiday 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Montesanto
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,570
Submitted By: Steve Montesanto on Aug 2, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: looking down at belayer over the waves of rock on ...

Closes at dusk, and most parking areas are self-paid MORE INFO >>>


1st pitch mostly technical 5.10 punctuated with a couple of easy 5.11 moves along the way. Final move left of the last bolt puts you up and over a small right facing corner onto the base of the upper slab (start of 2nd pitch). 2nd pitch is a low angle romp and goes at around 5.10a with crux at around the 7th bolt. Last 30 feet climbs a fun, easy flake system to the top anchors.


Route goes up giant slab across from the 2 towers. Start just right of the small cave and slightly up the hill. 1 70m rope gets you down in 2 raps. 2 60m ropes get you down in 1 rap but has bad rope drag pulling ropes from bottom.


1st pitch 10 bolts in 80 ft. 2nd pitch 13 bolts in 115 ft. Bolted anchors and Mussy hooks at top of 1st pitch. 6 glue ins at top of 2nd pitch (these are the anchors put in by the slack liners).

Photos of Roman Holiday Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lucas Price on 1st pitch.
Lucas Price on 1st pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill and Angie Price on Roman Holiday .11a/b
Bill and Angie Price on Roman Holiday .11a/b
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Carville photo credit
Mike Carville photo credit

Comments on Roman Holiday Add Comment
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By jimi thornburg
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route has some fun climbing. Steve really worked hard to clean this route of any loose rock and it's a pleasure to pull on the holds and know they're going to stay. Great views from the belays on top of both pitches.
By Steve Montesanto
Feb 3, 2014

After some feedback from Jim and others regarding the bolt spacing on the second pitch I decided to add some bolts and lessen the risk of a long cheese grater fall on the slab. Was 8 now 13 bolts in 115 ft of climbing.
By mike carville
Feb 15, 2014

Thanks guys. Makes the upper slab enjoyable and safe.
By mike carville
Mar 28, 2014

loose block 1/2 way up?
By Steve Montesanto
Apr 5, 2014

Checked out the suspect rock today. Yeah, there's been some recent rock that's come off just below the 6th bolt that hollowed out the pillar the bolt was in. Long story short, I moved the bolt down a few feet off pillar and into some solid rock. Beware, you still have to climb the hollow pillar (I don't think it's going anywhere)!
By Craig Thornley
From: Auburn, California
Jan 31, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Views are indeed awesome. The hollow pillar on the first pitch is a little spooky but rest of pitch is solid and the moves are fun. While second pitch is easier, there are scant handholds! Gotta stand up on those feet. Seeing the six glue-ins at the top gives an interesting perspective on the slack liners. No thanks. Thanks for all the work you put into making this climb enjoyable, Steve.
By Andrew Lee 1
Nov 5, 2015

Not sure about the rating consensus on the first pitch. I climbed it and seem a little harder than the 12b that is next to it. Second pitch of this route was a blast. It seem like a few of the holds might of broken off on the first pitch. If anyone has a knowledge on that subject let me know, I'm curious.
By sara pax
From: western mass
Apr 18, 2016
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A great route and makes for a fun outing. I linked the whole thing as a single pitch, which was super fun and pretty epic. I only had like 15 draws, but it was easy enough to back clean and and have a few little runouts. There was some rope drag up top, but it wasn't horrible.

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