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Holey Moley Wall
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Rollercoaster 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tim Toula 2006 FFA: Peter Vintoniv, 26 March 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime
Page Views: 715
Submitted By: James Garrett on Mar 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

To the left of Holey Moley, the original route on the wall, are two bolted steep lines. they share the same start and then diverge like a "Y". The left line finishes up a steep spur and is "Rollercoaster". The crux is apparently about 2/3 of the way up on this left neighbor of Old School Hardman. The rock on this wall is excellent and the grading needs consensus to be more definitive. Tim Toula strongly felt that both of these routes were as hard as 5.13d!

Location 

Rappel the route. Unlike as noted in the new guidebook, these routes have separate anchors. They do not converge and share anchors as the guidebook suggests. Rollercoaster may need chain added to replace the slings that are in place at the time of this writing.

Protection 

QDs for about 10 bolts.


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By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Mar 31, 2012

Ten bolts in 18 feet? Outstanding!
By James Garrett
Apr 1, 2012

Thanks Crusher for pointing out the discrepancy. It is actually longer than 18m. I am so poor at judging pitch lengths!
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Apr 1, 2012

Oh, 18 meters!

I thought maybe this was to be some April 1 joke or something. Seriously, these routes sounds real cool. Thanks for all the info. Gotta get me out to Ibex one day.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Apr 2, 2012

Is this the route on the left arete with the slabby -ish start? Hard to say from the description, which indicates this and OSHM share part of the route. However there's an independant line on the left (not the .11 that's around the corner) and it doesn't seem like there's enough space on the headwall for three independant lines.
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

A freakin great route! Interesting movement, bullet rock, nice long crux. Do this route! Either hard 12d or soft 13a, you choose.
By Scaligiuri Caligiuri
May 15, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Loved climbing this route, beautiful movement, the rock is just truly amazing in this area. You should do this route. Took me a few days to figure out how I was going to do the crux being a bit shorter then Jonathan and decided to take 13a :).

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