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YDS: 5.14- French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.14- French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Chris Weidner
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,801
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Jan 14, 2005

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  • Description 

    Rogue is a variation finish to the existing testpiece Vogue 14b. It climbs through the first desperate crux of Vogue, which involves slapping up both sides of an overhanging refrigerator on excellent rock. A strenuous rest can be found after clipping the ninth bolt. Instead of tackling Vogue's second crux just above, Rogue traverses left for 10 feet on sharp crimps, then fires through a roof using flared hand jams and small edges. There are 2 widely-spaced bolts after traversing left from Vogue.

    Both routes were bolted and attempted by George Squibb in the early nineties, but Vogue wasn't redpointed until 1999 by Tommy Caldwell. Rogue remained incomplete, primarily because it is an easier variation to the original line, and would be a 'why bother' for the three men who have sent Vogue. It is published as "Alternate Finish" on p. 92 of Rossiter's guidebook to Eldorado Canyon. Both George Squibb (redpoints 14b) and Justen Sjong (Vogue - 2nd ascent) confirm the grade of Rogue to be 14a.

    The climbing on this route is superb, and although it is not an independent line, Rogue remains a worthwhile and challenging addition to the sport climbing at the Industrial Wall.


    11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Rogue Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: In the business.  Photo by Dr. Mac.
    In the business. Photo by Dr. Mac.

    Comments on Rogue Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Mar 30, 2005

    So Chris, as I understand it you are claiming the FFA? Or no?
    By Chris Weidner
    Apr 7, 2005

    Yes, I am claiming the FFA (First Free Ascent).
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 3, 2005

    Nice work Chris!

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